6 PAC Sewing with a Plan

I make detailed plans for my sewing: but sadly often  they remain as strips of fabric, pictures and pattern numbers.  I take pleasure in creating a journal of the plan but need to move onto the actual task of sewing up the ideas.  It is with pleasure that I find myself completing a plan.

Inspiration for Shirt

I love the croquis from  Fashionary 

My eldest daughter has just completed her undergraduate degree in Architecture and is continuing onto her Masters.  As a poor student she was happy to have Mum make a few things to help extend her wardrobe.  At present she is enamoured with black so that was the base colour, not my favourite thing to sew or wear! I managed to slip in some petrol blue and grey to the mix for some variety.

First up were two tops from Ottobre Spring/Summer 2013.  A draped Tshirt (Lemon Juice No 13) cut on the fold to create the draped side.  This is a  petrol blue merino lycra blend from The Fabric Store in Wellington and I plan to make it in a larger size for myself.  With one piece for the front and back, the side is placed on the fold to create the drape.  

The second top was No 2 Summer Basic, made firstly in a burnout knit from the Auckland Fabric Store branch.  

I adjusted to add 3" length in the back above armhole  and 4"in the front.  The daughter wanted the long at back short at front look so the hem was lengthened.  Made in a beautiful merino knit from The Fabric Shop, Otara this is a great basic quick to make and extremely useful as a layer.

Next time I will shorten the light colour for a better proportion - although it looked good on her.

They looked great on her but unfortunately she disappeared back to Wellington before I could get photos.  She reports that they are getting a good work out in the wardrobe.

Finally a shirt was made from Autumn/Winter 5/2013 No 10 Parisian Chic.  This is a gathered from the yoke loose blouse made in a polyester polka dot.  It went together easily but the fabric was difficult to sew and pulled in places.  I normally dislike polyester but loved the polka dots and the colour.

 The gathers on the shirt meant that I did not need to make any alterations for width and she liked the look.  The final garment in the six pack is a Style Arc Skirt which is nearly finished.

Ottobre have some wonderful styles but my first experience with them proved to be disappointing as the dress was not a good fit.  These were all made in Size 46 and were a very stylish fit, I am now convinced to try some other styles in my size so watch this space.

Style Arc Maggie

I am a great fan of Style Arc patterns and the Maggie Shirt is just as good as everything else I have made.

I ordered the pattern in a Size 12 for my youngest daughter but did not get to making it up before summer ended.  At present I am making a collection of garments for the eldest daughter and had extra fabric left over from the Ottobre Shirt and cut the remainder out as the Maggie Shirt.

The pattern is very simple with dolman sleeves and a fly front.  It was this fly front that gave me so much trouble.  Style Arc instructions are more a list of the order to sew and I normally look them over then disregard but this tab front needed lots more.  While separate left and right fronts are cut it was very difficult to visualise how it went together to create the concealed button band (first you have to realise that the buttons were concealed!).  Luckily the wonderful ladies over at Stitchers Guild had the answer.  This tutorial from the blog toile & trouble completely explained the process (now printed out and filed with the pattern) and I was able to redo the front with success.

Once the front was completed it was a breeze to finish the rest of the shirt.  It has a yoke that extends into the sleeve and an inverted pleat at the centre back which gives a nice look as well as providing more room in the back. Unfortunately the fabric is not ideal for this style - a very fluid polyester which sticks to the body and crackles with static very quickly as you can see in the final photo.

Another nice feature of the shirt is the length and the shaped hem; it is very flattering and I am considering getting this in my size.

I will be making this again in time for next summer and think I will try it in a cool cotton with contrasting collar and yoke.

Absences, New Year Resolutions and Samplers.

I am welcoming myself back into the blogasphere - I have taken a break partly due to behind the scene busyness (help finish painting the house anyone?).  Happily I am about to throw the paint brushes away  for a few years with only a little bit of trim to go. 

Fortunately I have been able to fit in some sewing here and there.  Not so fortunately when I cannot get to sew I have a habit of indulging in virtual sewing which includes some not so virtual fabric shopping. So I find that I need to make a few New Years Resolutions regarding sewing up some of these beautiful pieces.

The top ready for joining with the side.

One pleasure I have indulged in is becoming more aquainted with my Bernina 780.  The Tauranga Bernina Centre is amazing for after sales support with the marvelous Robyn providing all manner of classes related to the machine.  Last year we worked on a series of samples (This 'n That Embellishment Sampler from Bernina) which were designed to complete as a cushion etc, however Mr DK is not so keen on more cushions, so I decided to combine these all into a bag/storage dust cover for the embroidery unit.  The intention was to have something that could protect the unit to and fro from 7's class. 

Crazy Patchwork with ribbons and embroidery patterns from the 780.

Each sample was backed with iron on batting then butted together and zig zagged. Placing the samples together took some time and I ended up cutting a few up for a better look.

Each join was covered over with this tape from the stash which I have had for over 20 years. I love the way the pattern arrows run all over the place rather than in one direction

The bottom of the bag ready for assembly.

As the lining and side fabric I used a chintz from the stash.  I used some of the large embroidery patterns from the 780 to embellish the side - I padded with the iron on batting before embroidery.

 Assembling the bag had its issues as it was a plan as you go project! I used a very stiff batting (not sure what it is called) between the lining and the outer layer and two continuous zips along the top. After lots of tacking and recutting I finally hand stitched the lining to the top and added the embroidery unit.

The completed bag.

A special flap was added to attach the top of the bag to the side and hide the ends of the zips.

Fabric stops added to continous zip ends

 And here is the unit in its specially made bag - the twill handles support the unit when tipped up for carrying and there is room for all sorts of odds and ends.

In the top of the bag I added a pocket to hold all the special hoops so that they are altogether.