tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52411254863465120422024-03-14T02:51:16.434-07:00Demented kiwi diariesMadly sewing and crafting in the glorious Waikato.jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.comBlogger64125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-35387893678603220412016-04-21T16:56:00.001-07:002016-04-21T17:02:29.548-07:00Winter Mash up – feeling the love for Ottobre<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrpYoAoGg8khorRTDNNi0WHczAXQOZ1g5iaOlENiK0z1iJ6hg8r-KCNqPpORUbm5bJ8UcyphUcpR-gT0mvUeFcnSdhfJJb4k0uBmO8g47cAobtMayynRbTcgjkaIpMfLbsYQ0QWhgOHSE/s1600/IMG_4528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrpYoAoGg8khorRTDNNi0WHczAXQOZ1g5iaOlENiK0z1iJ6hg8r-KCNqPpORUbm5bJ8UcyphUcpR-gT0mvUeFcnSdhfJJb4k0uBmO8g47cAobtMayynRbTcgjkaIpMfLbsYQ0QWhgOHSE/s320/IMG_4528.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD6d0qa4dtA2PbYGP1QMFgBomejUxOvmlb86izdR_brKjlK3bl-Q0OM5seSJqzHcO9vVz0tGUWyi3fRCf1O53csb1tV1KuRFBKzLirpabRmJWax0zjJ3hB7nEpDk3gN9Esd04KORKmRQM/s1600/IMG_4540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD6d0qa4dtA2PbYGP1QMFgBomejUxOvmlb86izdR_brKjlK3bl-Q0OM5seSJqzHcO9vVz0tGUWyi3fRCf1O53csb1tV1KuRFBKzLirpabRmJWax0zjJ3hB7nEpDk3gN9Esd04KORKmRQM/s200/IMG_4540.JPG" width="200" /></a>Winter is not far away here but we are enjoying a wonderful
warm autumn so far. DD the younger needs
some T-shirts so out came Ottobre Summer 2/2007 Design 3 Short-sleeved T-shirt
in size 44. So successful was this
pattern I have not been able to get them off her to photo. The neckline was raised slightly to DD
specifications.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Autumn/winter 5/2015 on the right, Spring/summer 2/2007 on the left.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 15.6933px;">While trolling the net we found this striped top from Salasei on<a href="http://www.superette.co.nz/deconstruct-tee-stripe.html" target="_blank"> Superette</a> website. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 107%;">DD loves stripes and her last navy T has
fallen to bits it was worn so much. </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 107%;"> We found </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 107%;">Ottobre Winter 5/2015 Design 17 Colourful
Concrete is a close match to the top.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span>Fabric was found at the wonderful Bernina Shop in Tauranga,
an interesting combination of cotton knit stripe and lace insert. In our search for stripes, which are meant to
be big this winter, I also purchased a khaki and pink viscose and spandex knit
from the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/" target="_blank">Dreamstress</a> viaTtrademe.<br />
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At first I traced the lines of Design 17 onto the shoulders
and armhole of Design 3, but DD really wanted the dropped shoulder so made a
muslin in Design 17 to test how this would look. I also had a go with adding an accent using
the red bobbin which is needed for Bobbin Work on the Bernina 780. That was fun
but DD nixed the look as a bit “blingy”.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The muslin to test out the pattern - what you cannot see is the dark brown glitter lines running down the front and back and around the neckband.<br />
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The inspiration top is raw edged sewn on the outside of the
garment but in the interests of a lasting garment I overlocked the raw edges,
sewed the seam as normal and then chained stitched a pintuck at the seam. I liked the final look and so did DD. The neck line was raised and rounded similar to
DD’s Tshirts and she loves the final result. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Look at that stripe matching! Great care was taken but I was very thrilled to see how it paid off. Win!</div>
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The striped viscose was made up in the mash up t-shirt as I
felt the fabric needed a more structured shoulder. Both versions shoulder seams were sewn with
tape to help stabilise the seam and it has worked a treat. The Tshirt was shortened about 2.5cm (about 1”)
in the body and about the same in the sleeves.<o:p></o:p></div>
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DD was a little over the photos but was very
tolerant of my attempts at a “photoshoot”.
I am off to make myself some T’s for winter but will avoid duplicating
these for myself as the mother/daughter look is banned in our house (by DD’s
orders!!).<o:p></o:p></div>
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jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-80046714785510638242015-09-25T00:21:00.001-07:002015-09-25T00:21:41.862-07:00Style Arc Trio<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/images/stories/2012/ANN-T-TOP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/images/stories/2012/ANN-T-TOP.jpg" height="200" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from www.stylearc.com.au<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></td></tr>
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The Style Arc Anne Tshirt has become the most used of all my patterns, a TNT. A basic ingredient in most wardrobe, a well fitting Tshirt is a pleasure to wear. I have adapted it and removed the gathering as I never was able to successfully sew them, and I much prefer it without the accent on the lack of waist definition. I am not a fast sewer but can cut and sew this within a few hours. My latest rendition was started at the NISM2015 but finally finished this week.<div>
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A few years ago I bought some sequined mesh to make a top that were all the rage but it entered the stash and I did not have any suitable knit to match with it. Fast forward to a trip to the local Hospice Shop and this knit with a lace pattern across it was $1.00 for 3metres.<br /><div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsgOqAD2Y4WtM-GDct6-pMwyNU9hlSDr-DF58VAXXxnjHdIwULUP67D432h7fk7EMfFh0fqikVkR_RSRN0CV2SFQkonS8GWCgx12sgiYbxYl7zHvxsBwFwTLYiouWc8qsc831E2ZEuPDM/s1600/IMG_4478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsgOqAD2Y4WtM-GDct6-pMwyNU9hlSDr-DF58VAXXxnjHdIwULUP67D432h7fk7EMfFh0fqikVkR_RSRN0CV2SFQkonS8GWCgx12sgiYbxYl7zHvxsBwFwTLYiouWc8qsc831E2ZEuPDM/s320/IMG_4478.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihmqEbZb88qtT6fiVRri5R-0iqO7LiHeilF2BGHKI10cSerXkfQVtg8zYXgjLsG8KnSuPDM1AVR6mkffqnEkI4uS5AsoeBgLNtHYZ12g9Z1XY3NgQpxdMDd21jQsBWX91UKiXwXSFsCjI/s1600/IMG_4480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihmqEbZb88qtT6fiVRri5R-0iqO7LiHeilF2BGHKI10cSerXkfQVtg8zYXgjLsG8KnSuPDM1AVR6mkffqnEkI4uS5AsoeBgLNtHYZ12g9Z1XY3NgQpxdMDd21jQsBWX91UKiXwXSFsCjI/s320/IMG_4480.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The band was folded over leaving a few millimeters of fabric to stop the sequins scratching along the neckline.</td></tr>
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The sequins are a bronze plastic on polyester mesh and sewn in a cluster pattern. I cut a front only out and laid it over the knit front, treating the two as one. The sequins were not difficult to sew over as they were only plastic but the Baby Lock cover stitch did not like it and it was a beast skipping and cutting the thread but it worked eventually it all worked.<br />
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Next up was another Anne in a beautiful rayon/lycra knit that has been in the stash a few years. I have teamed it up with Style Arc Margo skirt and an embroidered mesh that has aged for 20 years in the stash - about time it got used don't you think? I have some reservations about the age appropriateness of this outfit but I do like it on the model.</div>
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The Margo is an easy make and I have made it before for the eldest in a leather look poly which looked great. This time I used the mesh and doubled it - entirely by chance the motifs matched up in all pieces. I couldn't have planned it better if I tried. The lining is a beautiful stretch silk piece from The Fabric Store bargain bin and is a delicate blush colour,</div>
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Still in the works is a short cardigan similar to Muse Jenna style but I have adapted a Style Arc pattern to give a similar look. Pattern buying is off the list at present but necessity is the mother of invention so they say. One of the best things about this is that they were sewn 20 minutes a day, as it has been the busiest time of the year for relief teaching. Pictures of me wearing these to follow when I can get the photographer to take them. She is on holiday next week so soon.</div>
jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-41037583643483074962015-09-13T02:40:00.001-07:002015-09-13T02:40:20.532-07:00A new pattern makes all the difference or Ottobre to the rescue.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNHiDkXsE99aTOLx0d5GkkA7l8QrwdqSjCx6VOjhnKnnCTGeInJfU4U5OW27HEXN5jWvtbCWVlX-NKJZsz5-E7NAWAkaeMpKPNUIF6k_7VwGJsoPC9Yr0Hnyzqu3dnDRO2kdz8aidc8U/s1600/IMG_4473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNHiDkXsE99aTOLx0d5GkkA7l8QrwdqSjCx6VOjhnKnnCTGeInJfU4U5OW27HEXN5jWvtbCWVlX-NKJZsz5-E7NAWAkaeMpKPNUIF6k_7VwGJsoPC9Yr0Hnyzqu3dnDRO2kdz8aidc8U/s320/IMG_4473.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Following on from the previous post my desire for a quick project mushroomed into a 3 pattern monster but with a great ending. After trying the Style Arc Billie top and finding it unsuitable for my figure (plus sized apple) I remembered an Ottobre top that I had previously made for DD#1 which featured the drape effect that I liked but in a more fitted style.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWX6hHH-wzFudwBbfwm0rrnXEI5cOM-pzcyjhAaxr71k0tohVhF8HiwIPpl3nPNB5aKQMrUZGK2KkiDld1pMpeI7zqZu7xAwEhbM-ZsyPajSbdFUk0DE51WFNrNraZq6WEQ5RUFTeyk7Q/s1600/IMG_4475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWX6hHH-wzFudwBbfwm0rrnXEI5cOM-pzcyjhAaxr71k0tohVhF8HiwIPpl3nPNB5aKQMrUZGK2KkiDld1pMpeI7zqZu7xAwEhbM-ZsyPajSbdFUk0DE51WFNrNraZq6WEQ5RUFTeyk7Q/s320/IMG_4475.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The pattern is Lemon Juice No 13 in the Ottobre Spring/Summer 2/2013. I traced a 50/52 then laid it over the previously cut fabric and cut it out. Luckily I had another metre for the sleeves.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbeECIJqEdoJk0IX-i6JeGcGdtzPMg-Ec1hrTQydnmzn-hn1bkmd-VcHe-0j8l81cUoZ60qA4d_vm83uAF8FJLiJb8dn4lK-0RlqMllMG4Afas3RUlmOPwRge1uh7iRbjCTTqXG3F2058/s1600/IMG_4466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbeECIJqEdoJk0IX-i6JeGcGdtzPMg-Ec1hrTQydnmzn-hn1bkmd-VcHe-0j8l81cUoZ60qA4d_vm83uAF8FJLiJb8dn4lK-0RlqMllMG4Afas3RUlmOPwRge1uh7iRbjCTTqXG3F2058/s320/IMG_4466.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lemon Juice laid over the Size 20 Billie top - the back piece is only half and needs to be folded over and the other side cut out.</td></tr>
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Making this up is quick and easy, with the only departures from the pattern were gathering the neckline back and front rather than using the clear elastic to gather. I do not seem to have mastered this technique and it always ends in tears, fabric and liquid. So I did not even attempt it and I am pleased with the result. I lengthened the sleeves slightly for a more flattering look. As you can see I am very happy with the new top!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpKua9FsJWYWb8PSH2WBZazWAH4mHiQFIx_N50a7timGGF4RPeuJF_LS-k8sLLv7dezFXb8tcbMpwqA6KUFLooQ9UkQuP-liYmQBu6byOJMMGlc2ilwpBwkGxgjkti4IpJ5YIWxVFZhk/s1600/IMG_4468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfpKua9FsJWYWb8PSH2WBZazWAH4mHiQFIx_N50a7timGGF4RPeuJF_LS-k8sLLv7dezFXb8tcbMpwqA6KUFLooQ9UkQuP-liYmQBu6byOJMMGlc2ilwpBwkGxgjkti4IpJ5YIWxVFZhk/s320/IMG_4468.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-ye_lBexb3US-JK0wkhxKsRbU0tkNauMtWprroxpSrcqokJgwk4gXpJiJi3QzMWcgiYE80RcrUzDUYoZxllaUAceuvyt7Yxb1gTeJV6JOzxjsjvSHslg6cxdpda87xEiWaMEwz7QKhY/s1600/IMG_4467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-ye_lBexb3US-JK0wkhxKsRbU0tkNauMtWprroxpSrcqokJgwk4gXpJiJi3QzMWcgiYE80RcrUzDUYoZxllaUAceuvyt7Yxb1gTeJV6JOzxjsjvSHslg6cxdpda87xEiWaMEwz7QKhY/s320/IMG_4467.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The left side showing the short seam and then the pleat effect.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaocY5VotoLZn2cV2bxhG4omG9sUkgWE6-OckEMlHc1zjieSVmI1r4yGk3SHiQYFAOkb6SQ49wkn4jAdyfplWfDA4C_cL9hl3cTMTA-ESMCbFbp3rububnhBctuWeJ7-M1q3A7ADNGU-0/s1600/IMG_4469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaocY5VotoLZn2cV2bxhG4omG9sUkgWE6-OckEMlHc1zjieSVmI1r4yGk3SHiQYFAOkb6SQ49wkn4jAdyfplWfDA4C_cL9hl3cTMTA-ESMCbFbp3rububnhBctuWeJ7-M1q3A7ADNGU-0/s320/IMG_4469.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right side which is plain with no drape.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEholsPs-QuoO5F0lBrvRmqOkJrC_3d7LYm0jLlqMVkxBnPZ59B0-PTwVMr24FePD6V9iSrK_GecbQp7Ha3K1-V8hHoDfY5dTd80pqCA5Sfi6lC49XNs-TaNuDdUmwXqGLtpKS8PiuDLT4g/s1600/IMG_4471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEholsPs-QuoO5F0lBrvRmqOkJrC_3d7LYm0jLlqMVkxBnPZ59B0-PTwVMr24FePD6V9iSrK_GecbQp7Ha3K1-V8hHoDfY5dTd80pqCA5Sfi6lC49XNs-TaNuDdUmwXqGLtpKS8PiuDLT4g/s320/IMG_4471.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A much better amount of fabric but still with the desired drape effect.</td></tr>
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To conclude this is a great top which has sleeves! A very important addition in my mind. Although not shown in the photos this top has a high low hem but from side to side. It is snug about the hips which allows it to gather and blouson a little, but can be pulled down for a longer tunic look.<br />
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I'm off to teach art this week so now have the perfect outfit to wear in the artroom! Art Teacher chic indeed.<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-51620708260003122302015-09-09T00:20:00.000-07:002015-09-09T00:20:02.823-07:00Style Arc Billie Top<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I was looking for something simple and quick to make and it seemed that this top ticked all the boxes. One pattern piece quickly sewn together and Voila! a chic top to bridge the change of seasons. A teacher friend at a school I work in wears lots of this sort of thing and looks sensational and I forgot for a moment that sometimes this does not translate well.</div>
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I have a few pieces of statement fabric that would look better if the pattern was not broken up by seams and so I made up a trial in a heavy but nice feeling rayon knit from Bernina Tauranga's remnant bin. </div>
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First I checked around the net to see what the verdict was on this pattern and other than the facings which seemed to get the thumbs down there was not much else said. I wanted my top to be more a tunic and the ones on the net looked shorter than I wanted so I began by going down a size (to a 20) and adding 220mm to the length. The result was at first a disaster! The neckline dragged down to my belly button - the armholes gaped and I looked a little like a young girl trying on her mothers dresses. Not the look I was going for!</div>
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So firstly I stabilised the neckline and put a Tshirt Neckband on it which has solved that problem, however to pull it in has resulted in a slight gathered look which IMHO does not look tooo bad? The same treatment was applied to the left armhole which has made it a little better on the matter of gaping. Now it looks more like a lagenlook dress perhaps or maybe art teacher chic?</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anyone for a toga party??</td></tr>
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My next thought was to download and printout the Size 18 to see if that would look better in this knit. And a night was spent assembling with the cat helping by anchoring the next piece each time!<br />
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The thought was to pull it apart and recut to the smaller size but now I am not so sure, time to sew is in short supply at present and when I folded it up to a tunic hem length suddenly it did not look so bad ... well may not so bad. It still looks larger than the pattern drawing but I do like the look of the fabric pattern at this length.<br />
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It is still too long off the shoulders and perhaps stablising the shoulder seams for this weight knit would have been a good idea. In addition the pleat does not fall accross the body as it looks like it does on the pattern - rather it slips off the bust and disappears under the armhole.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLSd3fIprBkSMm7MbRRlis6YNHsjHBC4zxpB66pEcjijj08RRR8Clc4y1-WLHZepXALifAkQcOPCxFUiYwtfd4oHxcdWnx6WKadonywUajDErsxQtYfzOSQiLH0Sc6O1LhJY5pyeYY1c/s1600/IMG_4465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLSd3fIprBkSMm7MbRRlis6YNHsjHBC4zxpB66pEcjijj08RRR8Clc4y1-WLHZepXALifAkQcOPCxFUiYwtfd4oHxcdWnx6WKadonywUajDErsxQtYfzOSQiLH0Sc6O1LhJY5pyeYY1c/s320/IMG_4465.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I am still reconsidering recutting it a size smaller what do you think?jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-49184683886278541312015-08-11T00:49:00.000-07:002015-08-11T00:49:06.041-07:00NISM2015<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/u6V3TVFiplkvZvI6xQv3JSbWh8s9LxBYbsgnU3i8hxQ=w1027-h814-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/u6V3TVFiplkvZvI6xQv3JSbWh8s9LxBYbsgnU3i8hxQ=w1027-h814-no" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.dressesandme.com/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Penny</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;">, Carolyne, </span><a href="http://sewiststitch.blogspot.com/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Sandra</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;">, Sara, Trish, Toni, </span><a href="http://dementedkiwidiaries.blogspot.co.nz/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Jacqui</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;">, </span><a href="http://crazygypsychronicles.blogspot.co.nz/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Juliet</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;">, </span><a href="http://www.robynie.com/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Robyn</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;">, Helen,</span><a href="http://www.mswabisabi.blogspot.co.nz/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Kate</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;">, </span><a href="https://obsidianhandmade.wordpress.com/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Kate</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;">, </span></span><a href="http://flossieft.wordpress.com/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Sandra</a>, <a href="http://www.teaandrainbows.com/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Kirsty</a>,<span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;"> </span><a href="http://nikkisstitches.blogspot.co.nz/" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #f0638e; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 24.375px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; text-align: start; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Nikki</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #373737; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 24.375px; text-align: start;"> and <a href="https://thecuriouskiwi.wordpress.com/2015/08/11/north-island-sewing-meet-2015-in-pictures-mostly/" target="_blank">Mel </a> Photo courtesy of Mel.</span></td></tr>
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NISM2015 finally arrived and I packed the car up with far too many projects, machines and cake. So eager was I to get there I arrived far too early!!! <a href="http://www.artsvillage.org.nz/" target="_blank">The Arts Village</a>, in Rotorua, was new to me so I enjoyed the time to check it all out and met the volunteers who run it.<br />
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<a href="https://thecuriouskiwi.wordpress.com/2015/08/11/north-island-sewing-meet-2015-in-pictures-mostly/" target="_blank">Mel</a> and <a href="https://flossieft.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Sandra</a> turned up and it was all go. Lots of sewing, shopping, gossiping and eating ensured. I was fortunate to room with the lovely Robyn who had a neat dress and skirt that I need so more pattern buying! In fact a feature of this weekend was seeing close up many of the independent patterns that I had been wondering about. I love the <a href="http://sewingmuse.com/products/gillian-wrap-dress" target="_blank">Muse Gillian Dress</a> and can see myself making that up soon.<br />
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Next time I will be more organised and cut out a few more earlier than the night before!!! I cut out two Style Arc Anne long sleeve T-shirts. I also brought my bomber jacket, Pamela's Patterns Magic Pencil Skirt both of which were unfinished. I completed the Anne T-shirt in a beautiful french viscose knit from <a href="http://www.emmaonesock.com/fabrics/knitprints.asp?c=31" target="_blank">Emmaonesock</a> and the Pencil skirt.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHCglGsgwRikp8EfuNXwJYpsmO9pBK03qaIhk-6zvjSkIxxZBt6pNofyy5q_GKnMcz1AILi0cDYNIfbWoPZKg9SR5vVFNzVjzSgBaPoSo0-HpFirzSbAxX0TLaWtA4KtzFCJr2D6gvB8/s1600/IMG_4396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHCglGsgwRikp8EfuNXwJYpsmO9pBK03qaIhk-6zvjSkIxxZBt6pNofyy5q_GKnMcz1AILi0cDYNIfbWoPZKg9SR5vVFNzVjzSgBaPoSo0-HpFirzSbAxX0TLaWtA4KtzFCJr2D6gvB8/s320/IMG_4396.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Style Arc Anne T-shirt without the gathers and The magic pencil skirt.<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn-2kK9OH6T1CyipLRa3dWVZ_3I22RfjRiwFVZAFjttYVFBIJNS6lwKY0dTjrWLBkmQxMBd2I3NFbpB00LbdOgvYpVIyLrJPfYeX5aih5oPNgWBwIXnWWqKcJlAfEiViQFNo9TJu-29C8/s1600/IMG_4397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn-2kK9OH6T1CyipLRa3dWVZ_3I22RfjRiwFVZAFjttYVFBIJNS6lwKY0dTjrWLBkmQxMBd2I3NFbpB00LbdOgvYpVIyLrJPfYeX5aih5oPNgWBwIXnWWqKcJlAfEiViQFNo9TJu-29C8/s320/IMG_4397.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Styled for work </td></tr>
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I have worn both items and love them both so win. I have my sewmojo back and am now thinking about a spring wardrobe.<br />
<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-62549218965222496592015-06-29T00:41:00.003-07:002015-06-29T00:41:53.285-07:00Excitement Alert<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The wonderful Sandra and Mel from the Wellington Sewing Network have organised a Sewing Meetup and wonders of wonders it is just around the corner from where I live! Already registered and saved on the calendar I now have to decide what I want to sew and get it all ready!<br />
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With a pattern and fabric swap optional I think I will raid the stash and take some goodies along - which will help reduce if we have to move!<br />
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Looking forward to a weekend of sewing fun!jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-49630399013654741712015-06-08T16:42:00.002-07:002015-06-08T16:42:57.127-07:00Sorry Temporarily Out of Service<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjTlbTFd3TN3nr4mFlSqWjNH_PpWCbq_X4NJ_lNRilEQiwEvuuJa1RTnqeGFS96yXafXdnzSYUGq8wJdM0G8nGbzfwitbnrsKhEJV0sBqybk3nTicKxEVg_dVObVmN1-OTNC6F-iQCN2Q/s1600/30062012205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjTlbTFd3TN3nr4mFlSqWjNH_PpWCbq_X4NJ_lNRilEQiwEvuuJa1RTnqeGFS96yXafXdnzSYUGq8wJdM0G8nGbzfwitbnrsKhEJV0sBqybk3nTicKxEVg_dVObVmN1-OTNC6F-iQCN2Q/s320/30062012205.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter's Frost in the Waikato<br /></td></tr>
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Blogging has become very difficult to fit into my life at present; along with sewing, sleeping and gardening. Personal circumstances which I have mentioned previously i.e. job loss, have not improved. Luckily I was able to obtain a job working in the weekends which meant that I could continue to be available for Relief Teaching during the week.<br />
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Unfortunately the weekend job has now been been redundant as the company re- centralises its operation and moves back to Auckland. It was a fun job working as a QC Supervisor for My Food Bag. Great people to work with and the left overs were distributed to the staff so that helped the budget! I am now back in the hunt for a job, along with the man in the house who still has not been able to secure work.<br />
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All this makes thinking of spending any time in the sewing room a daunting proposition. Thank goodness for Bernina Club which has become my one extravagance each month. Many times I have thought to just pack the machines away but the few hours I have managed to spend at the machine over the last few months have been very revitalising. <br />
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As always there is a silver lining in all this disaster and I now weigh considerably less due to a combination of better portion control, more vegetables and less carbohydrate and sheer stress. I really need to organise myself to the 20 minute a day sewing plan to get a new wardrobe that fits the new figure. It is hard to know what to plan as depending on the job sucess will dictate the wardrobe required.<br />
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I need to send a shout out to all the wonderful sewing bloggers out there who have kept me sane. I have spent some of my precious time reading all the wonderful posts and dreaming of a time in the future when I will be able to have more time to think of sewing and sewing.<br />
<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-71092626242690077632015-02-04T23:44:00.001-08:002015-02-04T23:44:30.681-08:00Make a Garment a Month Challenge<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Joining the MAGAM challenge, created and curated by
SarahLiz, is with the hope of doing more sewing for myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The aim of the challenge is to create a
garment for you each month within a theme.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The theme is broad enough that it can be adapted to personal
needs, ideas or desires.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>January’s
theme was “Just Try Something New” very easy isn’t it?</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/M6286.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/M6286.jpg" height="320" width="303" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from McCalls website.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I decided that I need shirts, or is it blouses? So using a
pattern long in the stash but new to me that I love the look of, I made a
blouse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>McCalls 6286 has always
attracted me – the raglan sleeves and the wider collar framing the face would
perhaps flatter my short neck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
paired it with a mystery fabric from the huge Trademe fabric haul a few years
back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/mccall/6286/6286line.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/mccall/6286/6286line.gif" height="234" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from http://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/44600</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqsWQA6iawrOAFs1es02GTxENdKH_LjS7cnL-Xd6VMgd8bG3rivdX146UKU_m91XceBTCCIYuwLcVpNJMQj_K32MCxg_WohBYLZN1eyJwULUQzBk0_ckZvXzWgUVUyPYNcH3tSIql8o5w/s1600/IMG_4202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqsWQA6iawrOAFs1es02GTxENdKH_LjS7cnL-Xd6VMgd8bG3rivdX146UKU_m91XceBTCCIYuwLcVpNJMQj_K32MCxg_WohBYLZN1eyJwULUQzBk0_ckZvXzWgUVUyPYNcH3tSIql8o5w/s1600/IMG_4202.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Burn tests (thanks Chris for the help and link) show that it
is probably cotton with maybe some rayon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It burns to a dark powder that smells faintly of burning paper but also
has a finish that leaves a slightly oily residue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It feels and looks more like silk shantung with a shine and
texture running through it. It is very nice to the touch and against the
skin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQGQCG6j4rOhYmxviZ7vBTxpQJNpdtwmYH_TfGCx7oQrAsINtWIHkb-p9mAJYWVjzIiw-XI1GSXaxfCdhhp47fU0cFAH_Pex_N4sj_OkBBAy98Z1SYDmCK4BOxHZXh98CciQA4ltxYVD8/s1600/IMG_4199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQGQCG6j4rOhYmxviZ7vBTxpQJNpdtwmYH_TfGCx7oQrAsINtWIHkb-p9mAJYWVjzIiw-XI1GSXaxfCdhhp47fU0cFAH_Pex_N4sj_OkBBAy98Z1SYDmCK4BOxHZXh98CciQA4ltxYVD8/s1600/IMG_4199.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I like that the pattern has the Finished Garment
Measurements on the envelope back and I decided to make a size 20 with a
finished bust of 46 1/2” grading out to 22 at the hips with a finished width at
the lower edge of 50 1/2”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
ultimately proved to be a little close fitting at the bust and measurement of a
blouse in the cupboard shows that I am more comfortable with a bust measurement
of 50”. This I should have done before making DUH!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwOFpwecrndgmX1qs5oksARRmDelayjR5S6SrD3lrhgvGLbDHdVO3OYASUFYYGu_vztbJTYZHLlkz8g1z-zgeTLSj20WSLO-wPTptj9kSiLi5Wngsf4mLnSioVEyYaS1nhHgnxDn9RlE/s1600/IMG_4197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVwOFpwecrndgmX1qs5oksARRmDelayjR5S6SrD3lrhgvGLbDHdVO3OYASUFYYGu_vztbJTYZHLlkz8g1z-zgeTLSj20WSLO-wPTptj9kSiLi5Wngsf4mLnSioVEyYaS1nhHgnxDn9RlE/s1600/IMG_4197.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Making up the blouse was straight forward until the collar;
reviews of the blouse mentioned the difficulty with iron on interfacing so I
cut out these in silk organza.</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">
</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This was a great decision and worked a treat until I tried topstitching
the collar.</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I found the way the
collar is assembled and the front facing attachment a little perplexing and
made a bit of a botch which was fixed by hand sewing the exposed seam down.</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">One side of the collar and lapel lies
flat against the body and looks good; sadly I cannot say the same about the
other.</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It wants to flip over and
stands proud, I think it is a grain issue forced when I decided to top stitch
(pattern does not topstitch) any suggestions on how to fix this for next time
would be gratefully received.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Trying on the blouse shows that it fits well across the back
with the darts in place, the side seams are straight but the CF pulls which
indicates not enough fabric to cover the girls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My question is, should I go up a size for the bust (22) or
do a FBA? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am little intimidated
by the double darts regarding a FBA and would love to have some feedback about
what I should do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I will definitely be making this pattern up again and in the
same fabric.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-86973217397830962552015-01-30T13:08:00.001-08:002015-01-30T13:08:32.536-08:00Blink and miss it.Six months or more gone in a heart beat!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The poppy display was more awe inspiring in the real - it brought tears to my eyes<br />and wish that that modern leaders would realise the sheer waste of war.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Birmingham Bullring markets - fabric!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw0Ej9VvOi5cVopG0BqJc5s1E8lZU8DMXd5JizbsMrRz6hiK4BQt6E3Sr95bueo0t6Sj9mnQUS6LLjRUawjdiTOocAHCx5wKfKe0J8YNpSQh1bSRMG9Phwwjuoe51mHQH8qrodSL-hkDI/s1600/IMG_4182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw0Ej9VvOi5cVopG0BqJc5s1E8lZU8DMXd5JizbsMrRz6hiK4BQt6E3Sr95bueo0t6Sj9mnQUS6LLjRUawjdiTOocAHCx5wKfKe0J8YNpSQh1bSRMG9Phwwjuoe51mHQH8qrodSL-hkDI/s1600/IMG_4182.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcl6EkTl9bUiAWkbLr1PB7uDl-YeM7HDUGJ_vdYKt8gl3TBRhmur8KuX582RwcUn5rbAb8__ZIc3vCR7R_pRN-GRZnADy_YhSCOhYXm524ksRHKSnlOQ7uBgHsvc-8B_dETulJAoqVZdA/s1600/IMG_4170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcl6EkTl9bUiAWkbLr1PB7uDl-YeM7HDUGJ_vdYKt8gl3TBRhmur8KuX582RwcUn5rbAb8__ZIc3vCR7R_pRN-GRZnADy_YhSCOhYXm524ksRHKSnlOQ7uBgHsvc-8B_dETulJAoqVZdA/s1600/IMG_4170.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></div>
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So what happened? Lots of sewing, a trip to England to see my father, a new contract teaching English to Japanese children on holiday to NZ. 2014 has passed in an blink and now we are almost into the second month of 2015. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I spent lots of time in museums looking at<br />costumes - Lyme Regis Fossil Museum.</td></tr>
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So far 2015 is not looking to great and if only I could be a bear and sleep it away. Real life is intruding and it is not pretty. While everyone else is celebrating the lower energy prices, we are anxiously watching for it to stop dropping and starting rising. Mr DK has joined the ranks of the laid off, of which there are thousands in the oil industry. Always a volatile industry, the oil business for the contract worker is precarious with long periods of layoff. We have gone through this before and I guess will again in the future. <br />
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To help alleviate the depression I have joined the MAGAM sew along and have launched a campaign to tame the wilderness that was the garden. <br />
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On the topic of sewing I have become a fan of the Ottobre Magazine, as a former Burda aficionado I am disappointed in the direction it continues to go. For the trip I made clothes that could be layered over each other for the fickle English weather as advised, but England turned on a really hot autumn so did not wear much that I made. <br />
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The most successful item was a Merino Hoodie from the Autumn/Winter 2014 issue of Ottobre. The fabric from Morlands Fabric in Hamilton was a pricy merino rib knit originally intended for DD#1. I cut a size 50 with no alterations and it was just right to go over jeans etc and under jackets in Birmingham. When I got back I passed it to DS#1 as he is off to Palmerston North to varsity and it snows there occasionally.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rib knit means that this does 'grow' but does<br />go back after the wash.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DD#1 loves the relaxed fit.</td></tr>
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jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-43663165430746708112014-07-11T02:28:00.001-07:002014-07-11T02:28:12.162-07:006 PAC Sewing with a PlanI make detailed plans for my sewing: but sadly often they remain as strips of fabric, pictures and pattern numbers. I take pleasure in creating a journal of the plan but need to move onto the actual task of sewing up the ideas. It is with pleasure that I find myself completing a plan.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVkjx0eqeMepUmRssMcopViB3-DEz_KHh881F3aB3SERshoO-irIEzKjzG4RWQCyFeS2NIbxUPA2KI5t1OKL5NKN3xWdTchXh2n4m_-h0rmFdSYaYeSGv9yAd7cKul3YwR2eYbL5XGto/s1600/IMG_1443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVkjx0eqeMepUmRssMcopViB3-DEz_KHh881F3aB3SERshoO-irIEzKjzG4RWQCyFeS2NIbxUPA2KI5t1OKL5NKN3xWdTchXh2n4m_-h0rmFdSYaYeSGv9yAd7cKul3YwR2eYbL5XGto/s1600/IMG_1443.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspiration for Shirt</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFhZZ9Wym4IiXK7DTvjhyRLGE0_cEE-RP8hrZ4ugXSwcIKKBNfFB_oEFijq34oBsAJdjYaUK9QscZIv3fMMjQSFyCiSJRW4MFW-N_Fl6CIB-ecYQt9sprPMkROpi6rX6XmHMnwLiIlX5Q/s1600/IMG_1444.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFhZZ9Wym4IiXK7DTvjhyRLGE0_cEE-RP8hrZ4ugXSwcIKKBNfFB_oEFijq34oBsAJdjYaUK9QscZIv3fMMjQSFyCiSJRW4MFW-N_Fl6CIB-ecYQt9sprPMkROpi6rX6XmHMnwLiIlX5Q/s1600/IMG_1444.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love the croquis from Fashionary </td></tr>
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My eldest daughter has just completed her undergraduate degree in Architecture and is continuing onto her Masters. As a poor student she was happy to have Mum make a few things to help extend her wardrobe. At present she is enamoured with black so that was the base colour, not my favourite thing to sew or wear! I managed to slip in some petrol blue and grey to the mix for some variety.</div>
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First up were two tops from Ottobre Spring/Summer 2013. A draped Tshirt (Lemon Juice No 13) cut on the fold to create the draped side. This is a petrol blue merino lycra blend from <a href="http://www.thefabricstore.co.nz/wellington" target="_blank">The Fabric Store</a> in Wellington and I plan to make it in a larger size for myself. With one piece for the front and back, the side is placed on the fold to create the drape. </div>
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The second top was No 2 Summer Basic, made firstly in a burnout knit from the Auckland Fabric Store branch. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I adjusted to add 3" length in the back above armhole and 4"in the front. The daughter wanted the long at back short at front look so the hem was lengthened. Made in a beautiful merino knit from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Fabric-Shop-Otara-Auckland/420362781378758" target="_blank">The Fabric Shop, Otara</a> this is a great basic quick to make and extremely useful as a layer.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Next time I will shorten the light colour for a better proportion - although it looked good on her.</td></tr>
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They looked great on her but unfortunately she disappeared back to Wellington before I could get photos. She reports that they are getting a good work out in the wardrobe.</div>
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Finally a shirt was made from Autumn/Winter 5/2013 No 10 Parisian Chic. This is a gathered from the yoke loose blouse made in a polyester polka dot. It went together easily but the fabric was difficult to sew and pulled in places. I normally dislike polyester but loved the polka dots and the colour.</div>
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The gathers on the shirt meant that I did not need to make any alterations for width and she liked the look. The final garment in the six pack is a Style Arc Skirt which is nearly finished.<br />
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Ottobre have some wonderful styles but my <a href="http://dementedkiwidiaries.blogspot.co.nz/2013/08/ottobre-tunic.html" target="_blank">first experience</a> with them proved to be disappointing as the dress was not a good fit. These were all made in Size 46 and were a very stylish fit, I am now convinced to try some other styles in my size so watch this space.<br />
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jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-59137259030701785142014-06-09T03:30:00.001-07:002014-06-09T03:30:18.079-07:00Style Arc Maggie<br />
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I am a great fan of Style Arc patterns and the Maggie Shirt is just as good as everything else I have made. <br />
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I ordered the pattern in a Size 12 for my youngest daughter but did not get to making it up before summer ended. At present I am making a collection of garments for the eldest daughter and had extra fabric left over from the Ottobre Shirt and cut the remainder out as the Maggie Shirt. <br />
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The pattern is very simple with dolman sleeves and a fly front. It was this fly front that gave me so much trouble. Style Arc instructions are more a list of the order to sew and I normally look them over then disregard but this tab front needed lots more. While separate left and right fronts are cut it was very difficult to visualise how it went together to create the concealed button band (first you have to realise that the buttons were concealed!). Luckily the wonderful ladies over at <a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php?topic=23596.35" target="_blank">Stitchers Guild</a> had the answer. This <a href="http://thetoileandtrouble.com/2011/11/06/concealed-button-placket/" target="_blank">tutorial</a> from the blog <b>toile & trouble </b>completely explained the process (now printed out and filed with the pattern) and I was able to redo the front with success.<br />
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Once the front was completed it was a breeze to finish the rest of the shirt. It has a yoke that extends into the sleeve and an inverted pleat at the centre back which gives a nice look as well as providing more room in the back. Unfortunately the fabric is not ideal for this style - a very fluid polyester which sticks to the body and crackles with static very quickly as you can see in the final photo.<br />
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Another nice feature of the shirt is the length and the shaped hem; it is very flattering and I am considering getting this in my size.</div>
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I will be making this again in time for next summer and think I will try it in a cool cotton with contrasting collar and yoke.</div>
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-60963950889821926152014-03-07T02:05:00.001-08:002014-03-07T02:05:12.066-08:00Absences, New Year Resolutions and Samplers.<br />
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I am welcoming myself back into the blogasphere - I have taken a break partly due to behind the scene busyness (help finish painting the house anyone?). Happily I am about to throw the paint brushes away for a few years with only a little bit of trim to go. </div>
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Fortunately I have been able to fit in some sewing here and there. Not so fortunately when I cannot get to sew I have a habit of indulging in virtual sewing which includes some not so virtual fabric shopping. So I find that I need to make a few New Years Resolutions regarding sewing up some of these beautiful pieces.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The top ready for joining with the side.</td></tr>
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One pleasure I have indulged in is becoming more aquainted with my Bernina 780. <a href="http://www.berninatauranga.co.nz/catalog/" target="_blank">The Tauranga Bernina Centre</a> is amazing for after sales support with the marvelous Robyn providing all manner of classes related to the machine. Last year we worked on a series of samples (This 'n That Embellishment Sampler from Bernina) which were designed to complete as a cushion etc, however Mr DK is not so keen on more cushions, so I decided to combine these all into a bag/storage dust cover for the embroidery unit. The intention was to have something that could protect the unit to and fro from 7's class. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGaQJB1vCHSe9qy8SPtvkoKkjyDx-VAeunnyXhD8t65GMlKgdx74L8JSQ3eLDIZaYa4T7ggtmp7UNKZ6EHXjE0AB9u73itbeQ9R1-_Svsq7Kvw-xyhQklx9poYwcyxmZwWED2H1ATBr0/s1600/IMG_0783.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGaQJB1vCHSe9qy8SPtvkoKkjyDx-VAeunnyXhD8t65GMlKgdx74L8JSQ3eLDIZaYa4T7ggtmp7UNKZ6EHXjE0AB9u73itbeQ9R1-_Svsq7Kvw-xyhQklx9poYwcyxmZwWED2H1ATBr0/s1600/IMG_0783.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crazy Patchwork with ribbons and embroidery patterns from the 780.</td></tr>
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Each sample was backed with iron on batting then butted together and zig zagged. Placing the samples together took some time and I ended up cutting a few up for a better look.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfotcR2RHqH_fVsI80FmVyKlLHNq3rcsCWZOjgBuJ9UIjjs0yD08GvVvUK8CAUwRsI-GoebgiGHDWgLqXAD7ayP1Po0kziIKfdAsQY_vBAhqbaMaxU6Azimkpk9IapH6QwQpQ7f5tB8v4/s1600/IMG_0791.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfotcR2RHqH_fVsI80FmVyKlLHNq3rcsCWZOjgBuJ9UIjjs0yD08GvVvUK8CAUwRsI-GoebgiGHDWgLqXAD7ayP1Po0kziIKfdAsQY_vBAhqbaMaxU6Azimkpk9IapH6QwQpQ7f5tB8v4/s1600/IMG_0791.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Each join was covered over with this tape from the stash which I have had for over 20 years. I love the way the pattern arrows run all over the place rather than in one direction</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgntRu_AT7_HXsv7_OgwiqWWTV0byidNJyCnNwF42CyDjVAr7Wakj-bRnNbWgS73vRjgMg5wu8eL4HbDvXkeHo15-q7GY6Lsaxc_OOAR6aTGLb6tVqWh55EmjFKf1gfexSbSFNSRQf0GZQ/s1600/IMG_0790.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgntRu_AT7_HXsv7_OgwiqWWTV0byidNJyCnNwF42CyDjVAr7Wakj-bRnNbWgS73vRjgMg5wu8eL4HbDvXkeHo15-q7GY6Lsaxc_OOAR6aTGLb6tVqWh55EmjFKf1gfexSbSFNSRQf0GZQ/s1600/IMG_0790.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bottom of the bag ready for assembly.</td></tr>
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As the lining and side fabric I used a chintz from the stash. I used some of the large embroidery patterns from the 780 to embellish the side - I padded with the iron on batting before embroidery.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZ7c7jZBl5v_2jrMax6NcJNWV7aZ4iyyis6ZjfRG5yUE4oKtIXaPnxicxO9-rxxtXnlCUzCenT-cJRQwW39N1pFrppfBPkfeVdpg41I-AhaWbHmNE0S4mQc9yIOSIeWf5KRyDHiqwvkM/s1600/IMG_0797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZ7c7jZBl5v_2jrMax6NcJNWV7aZ4iyyis6ZjfRG5yUE4oKtIXaPnxicxO9-rxxtXnlCUzCenT-cJRQwW39N1pFrppfBPkfeVdpg41I-AhaWbHmNE0S4mQc9yIOSIeWf5KRyDHiqwvkM/s1600/IMG_0797.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Assembling the bag had its issues as it was a plan as you go project! I used a very stiff batting (not sure what it is called) between the lining and the outer layer and two continuous zips along the top. After lots of tacking and recutting I finally hand stitched the lining to the top and added the embroidery unit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSgRwM25sIOTJYMAVf9xzikb2IEZhX8oKCSgxB-hCSXYy8HFndJlMsCyyKFtS6gik8gX9CCMYo3HqLQSjR2Qpx569kDeHFdrztPv8b2lwaxkYSdZw-bNnaA3QEvJXjeQofeerM3Yh6WOI/s1600/IMG_0836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSgRwM25sIOTJYMAVf9xzikb2IEZhX8oKCSgxB-hCSXYy8HFndJlMsCyyKFtS6gik8gX9CCMYo3HqLQSjR2Qpx569kDeHFdrztPv8b2lwaxkYSdZw-bNnaA3QEvJXjeQofeerM3Yh6WOI/s1600/IMG_0836.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The completed bag.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswNS9SjhUgKaqGtVbCpYsWSRT0vfWGXwgKlGGf8wcAx1vGofFjFBkrzGelBkzSbyzew75ICOWmLRYJqTjjYjJ9JO2U6ZFYKIF1hwtDbjRbaPb7IGl1rGjOJTCgxD6odq1B2H2rno2wPM/s1600/IMG_0837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswNS9SjhUgKaqGtVbCpYsWSRT0vfWGXwgKlGGf8wcAx1vGofFjFBkrzGelBkzSbyzew75ICOWmLRYJqTjjYjJ9JO2U6ZFYKIF1hwtDbjRbaPb7IGl1rGjOJTCgxD6odq1B2H2rno2wPM/s1600/IMG_0837.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A special flap was added to attach the top of the bag to the side and hide the ends of the zips.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfX9zNwlxWSSL15SvCyIxiHgGpZNvJJY29TaJrmimyeZlVzBDgSoVPhef8cEOM3yP7Ujkmy8_diXRc3wsvvvwiHzSEfht-vaUdaxbfn230XWVf9RFIBjDZz3rr1QMZXoxcCcvj6Ico0IY/s1600/IMG_0838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfX9zNwlxWSSL15SvCyIxiHgGpZNvJJY29TaJrmimyeZlVzBDgSoVPhef8cEOM3yP7Ujkmy8_diXRc3wsvvvwiHzSEfht-vaUdaxbfn230XWVf9RFIBjDZz3rr1QMZXoxcCcvj6Ico0IY/s1600/IMG_0838.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fabric stops added to continous zip ends</td></tr>
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And here is the unit in its specially made bag - the twill handles support the unit when tipped up for carrying and there is room for all sorts of odds and ends.<br />
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In the top of the bag I added a pocket to hold all the special hoops so that they are altogether.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNV4p-pXgIxEYmb1En7gkp3VFDDShyphenhyphen7fPlLl-WVkFDJf1hVMkjoAoahml4fT4RXSwyzMmhbMBccaloIEgczI1qQfDRvbOGS9rUNNvI7zeF-omST_FUiUK4GTdk0E16ChPSgNP2al9gazw/s1600/IMG_0841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNV4p-pXgIxEYmb1En7gkp3VFDDShyphenhyphen7fPlLl-WVkFDJf1hVMkjoAoahml4fT4RXSwyzMmhbMBccaloIEgczI1qQfDRvbOGS9rUNNvI7zeF-omST_FUiUK4GTdk0E16ChPSgNP2al9gazw/s1600/IMG_0841.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-14160762266246786352013-12-04T01:33:00.004-08:002013-12-04T01:33:57.121-08:00Subtropical interludes and encores<!--StartFragment-->
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiCDGaItJhpH8QhTPwicYDVSFUzLjWNxVHoeiqjiNgKLOPNHPefBhdhYLxwt7ONg-G-nwbjpqZzwQQtZwKSTIFCQ-mlMFVYPNMxRE-kG2gZyJWjFAEE8yyFubJ5SSLNaHipBx2Ja8SrgE/s1600/IMG_0424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiCDGaItJhpH8QhTPwicYDVSFUzLjWNxVHoeiqjiNgKLOPNHPefBhdhYLxwt7ONg-G-nwbjpqZzwQQtZwKSTIFCQ-mlMFVYPNMxRE-kG2gZyJWjFAEE8yyFubJ5SSLNaHipBx2Ja8SrgE/s320/IMG_0424.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4q2aYGBNOeNJQHZA1TS3hqIobHO0BFObVtzo77trU0Ne34zdsOl-uLQO5r83yzMDHEHGgLPt9v3jbhe_XfdKlZJ01-a1hBbDPsw14ECSo6VwbdvCR3b5edxwb9yGksVBpdy97oCEdeT4/s1600/IMG_0537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4q2aYGBNOeNJQHZA1TS3hqIobHO0BFObVtzo77trU0Ne34zdsOl-uLQO5r83yzMDHEHGgLPt9v3jbhe_XfdKlZJ01-a1hBbDPsw14ECSo6VwbdvCR3b5edxwb9yGksVBpdy97oCEdeT4/s320/IMG_0537.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBOJ-vfZHTyne3VDZaDwEOfrJECLWxIl_ijkPsGS9rwV30B9ikb34hJaFjIrjorAhO1RzPid_Qz8JwMQ89TyowN6ZgyChY6ALhzBHhTFzMsh3MoJHI7H0ebN7OkDLGkBkmIgHG9YG1qJM/s1600/IMG_0542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBOJ-vfZHTyne3VDZaDwEOfrJECLWxIl_ijkPsGS9rwV30B9ikb34hJaFjIrjorAhO1RzPid_Qz8JwMQ89TyowN6ZgyChY6ALhzBHhTFzMsh3MoJHI7H0ebN7OkDLGkBkmIgHG9YG1qJM/s320/IMG_0542.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Recently I had the opportunity to spend
some time with the husband in Brisbane,
he has been based in the inner city instead of the desert as
normal. He hates the city but I
enjoyed the experience.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I spent my days exploring the shops and got
very excited to be able to see (and touch) so many designer clothes etc rather
than rely on photos for inspiration.
I fell in love with a Giorgio Armani handbag </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.savoirflair.com/sites/default/files/Giorgio-Armani-Handbags-Shoes-Accessories-Fall-2013-22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.savoirflair.com/sites/default/files/Giorgio-Armani-Handbags-Shoes-Accessories-Fall-2013-22.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from http://www.savoirflair.com/</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Sadly this remains in Brisbane for obvious
reasons but I loved the simplicity of
design and will look around for something similar locally.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I had great fun acting the tourist visiting
the South Bank and all the art galleries and museums – a highlight was the Afghanistan
Hidden Treasures Exhibition. It
was well worth the fee and very interesting to learn more about the Silk Route
and the role Afghanistan held at this time. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I also stopped off at the California Design
Exhibition and loved this dress and then spent way too much at the Gallery
Shop, which had so many cool old-fashioned toys and art bits and pieces. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">No trip can be without fabric so I set off
to Alla Moda, as recommended by Lynda,. After a train trip then a longer than
intended walk I entered another world of fabulous fabric. The fabrics were sensational but pricey
– I wonder if they ever have a sale? This is what came home with me; a gorgeous
Italian silk print , and a remnant of fine cotton sateen. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxUGC7ySlXkeIrIY6PBPDiVILSHbtsNLcoAeI3_5Pyqq4cY3PtFCCoyLA9q7kJ9GiN27UjuzwkM_m8mhFI5guk3FR9fvTnnD53GmuDYYe78gSEkY6_7HfxxdlMAcVTRag0tVfFdVmpf8/s1600/IMG_0713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxUGC7ySlXkeIrIY6PBPDiVILSHbtsNLcoAeI3_5Pyqq4cY3PtFCCoyLA9q7kJ9GiN27UjuzwkM_m8mhFI5guk3FR9fvTnnD53GmuDYYe78gSEkY6_7HfxxdlMAcVTRag0tVfFdVmpf8/s320/IMG_0713.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Italian Silk Border Print</td></tr>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The youngest D has her eye on the silk
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Back at home and an encore featuring the
wonderful Heidi Cardigan. First
another version for me out of a fine cotton sweatshirting., this time I decided
to line the hood. I do not like
this, it makes the hood a lot heavier.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Next up the youngest had requested a hoodie
for herself. She wanted it in the
same fabric as mine. I made her
version in a Size 10 and she loves it!</span></div>
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jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-55777078078216264272013-11-02T16:52:00.002-07:002013-11-02T16:58:53.779-07:00Tootsie Revisited<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Time out for a project can change perspective and this holds true for the Tootsie Top. </div>
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I was very ambivalent about the <a href="http://dementedkiwidiaries.blogspot.co.nz/2013/10/style-arc-tootsie-and-giveaway.html" target="_blank">first version</a>. I let it sit and posted all about how I perceived this top for my body. The response I received about the top has prompted me to remake this in a plain viscose lycra knit.</div>
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I made a few changes - firstly I added to the side seams by about 1cm (and forgot about adding to the diagonal pattern piece side seam! so had to ajust slightly on that side seam.) and changed the back neck facing and ended up folding it over after completing the shoulder seams for a cleaner finish - Anne does it much better on <a href="http://clothingengineer.com/2013/10/style-arc-tootsie-top/" target="_blank">her version</a>.</div>
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I also was much more careful to mark the knotches and used my favourite tailors tack method. The seams went together easily once again using the chain stitch but this time I sewed the tucks closer to the edge (0.5cm) and I like the effect better.<br />
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I made the sleeves longer but as I have very short arms had to fold out in a couple of places as normal. The fabric is cool to wear and I can see myself wearing this out in the evenings.</div>
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I am still not so happy with the neckline and would prefer it a little lower to deflect away from the chins LOL but it still is not to bad. I much prefer the plain one colour version but I wonder what it would be like as a colour block version? Or is is that too yesterday?<br />
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What do you think? <br />
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I have changed my mind about this pattern but am not sure how many Tootsies one needs in the wardrobe. <br />
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I have made multiple Anne Tshirts and continue to make more for this year but that has become a TNT for me. One factor for me is the difficulty getting an easy and clean finish at the neckline and shoulder on the Tootsie. What is it about a pattern that makes it a repeat candidate?<br />
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As I probably will not make this pattern again I have drawn out Dorothy's name to send the pattern and fabric. So if you could email me at jacquiannehooper at gmail dot com I will get the fabric and pattern away to you.<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-73408007601620258962013-10-18T18:43:00.001-07:002013-10-18T18:43:10.582-07:00Style Arc Tootsie and a giveaway<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Style Arc Tootsie Top October's Freebie</td></tr>
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I am on a trouser making binge and ordered a few from Style Arc this month to continue the fitting <s>nightmare</s> journey. Accompanying the patterns was this months freebie and it looked very interesting - so interesting that I bought some fabric and made it! </div>
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The fabric was from the wonderful Fabric Shop (previously Designer Textiles in Otara) and is a cotton/lycra knit in a dainty shellpink/beige and black stripe. I have been consulting colour books again and the advice for one such as my colouring is to reduce the contrast between two colours that I wear. So I can wear black stripes as long as I mute the contrast such as this fabric.</div>
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I made the pattern up in my usual Size 20 and decided not to add any extra insurance on seams as the front looked like a rather complicated puzzle. Style Arc has provided pictures showing how to make up along with the written instructions but I found them hard to understand until I actually had the pieces in my hands to follow instructions.</div>
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The first difficulty was working out the way the front pieces went as my stripe had an up and down side - I ended up putting the lighter stripes upwards and the darker thicker stripe underneath. Cutting out after working this out was a breeze and very quick as only one layer was required.</div>
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The first step in making this top was to iron the tuck allowances (which then form the neck line and fold over the seams). I decided this was an excellent time to use the Babylock chainstitch on the Coverseamer and resulted in beautiful joins of the front pieces with no rippling or stretching. I highly recommend using this stitch for this top if you have it. </div>
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Somehow I think I have made an error as the diagonal stripe piece ends higher up the armhole that is drawn on the pattern - also it slightly screws upward across the bust. After assembling the front it was an easy and quick matter to finish the rest (although in my case my overlocker decided to eat the fabric of one shoulder which meant that I spent lots of time unpicking and the neckline might be a little higher than on the pattern).</div>
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My daughter, the photographer, said it looked great on me (she is not one for false praise) but I am not so sure. Firstly it feels a little tight and you can see it pulling across the bust (D cup here). Were I to make it again I would add more to the side seams (now I know where they are) and perhaps lower the neckline a little. The pattern itself is well drafted and went together without problems (operator error is responsible for the higher neckline as above) once I had the pieces cut out. </div>
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Does anyone else read instructions completely before beginning a project? I do and the odd time I don't ( see the Style Arc Heidi Cardigan edge problem) always ends in tears, but I have problems with both Style Arc and Burda instructions understanding as I guess they are very brief and understanding does not occur until I actually have the garment pieces in hand and working through the instructions.</div>
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I have yet to hem the sleeves and bottom but will finish this top only so I can pass it on - The Bernina Club ladies are always interested in a new piece of clothing! I bought 2 metres of fabric for this but only used less than a metre - I think the generous measuring of the sales assistant means that there is more than enough for another top. So if you think you would like to try this top I am giving away the pattern and the rest of the fabric - to ensure that it is morally correct I issue a disclaimer that I have not made a copy as I do not intend making this pattern again. <br />
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Please comment if you would like to receive this pattern along with the remaining fabric and I will make the draw next weekend.<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-49684107601847218142013-10-12T22:56:00.003-07:002013-10-12T22:56:54.251-07:00Style Arc Heidi Cardigan<br />
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<a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/images/2013/HEIDI-CARDI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/images/2013/HEIDI-CARDI.jpg" height="377" width="640" /></a></div>
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As I have often stated I love <a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/" target="_blank">Style Arc Patterns</a> - Chloe is a genius as far as I am concerned. The patterns are a wonderful fit for my figure and I make them up as per the pattern with no alterations. Another great thing about them is that they offer a freebie each month so my pattern ordering habits are dictated by what the free pattern is on offer.</div>
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The Heidi cardigan did not make the list when it came out and it was not until I saw Anne's, aka The Clothing Engineer, version on her <a href="http://clothingengineer.com/2013/04/style-arc-heidi-hooded-cardigan/" target="_blank">blog</a> that I decided to order and there it sat. Just recently we have had topsy turvey weather, temperature wise and I needed a top to add a little warmth but not too much and decided to try this cardi.</div>
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The fabric is from a new to me store in Hamilton called '<a href="http://www.backstreetbargains.co.nz/" target="_blank">Backstreet Bargains</a>' and is a creamy rayon knit which has been felted(?) onto a black nylon poly fine knit. It is not possible to pull apart but the rayon is all scrunched up and makes for a great textural effect. I cut the pattern exactly as is and originally was going to line the hood but did not have enough fabric due to not readying directions properly (Go figure DUH!), as it was I had to piece the front band to get enough length.</div>
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Once it was cut it was an easy job putting it together - I followed the instructions - sort of for the pocket and then just followed my instincts for the rest. I overlocked the seams with my Babylock and then used the coverstitch machine to sew the band seams down and outline.</div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZlM2GuB491khQY4b3OFa7Ueg8i0hZditft8eGuPTbT2FuybtIrTN1HG8FMEzo0ILY5WlVFDwCVapMZ2nE3gEPvYOfboPyJWA6PDq696xK5lYX3PYCUfKSZ194wQb5kl80cmPT6O7XXI/s1600/IMG_0096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ZlM2GuB491khQY4b3OFa7Ueg8i0hZditft8eGuPTbT2FuybtIrTN1HG8FMEzo0ILY5WlVFDwCVapMZ2nE3gEPvYOfboPyJWA6PDq696xK5lYX3PYCUfKSZ194wQb5kl80cmPT6O7XXI/s1600/IMG_0096.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Initially I was only going to have the buttons as decoration as shown here on the pockets, my record of buttonholes in knits is not good! However after wearing for an hour I found that I kept wanting to button it up so added a buttonhole, and successfully I might add.</div>
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How did I conquer the problem of messy knit buttonholes? </div>
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With stabilisier of course! </div>
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On the inside band I used self adhesive stablisier and a wash away plastic stablisier on the top to hold all that textured knit in place. The buttonhole was stitched using the Bernina stretch buttonhole programme and perfection was the result. Well maybe not... it was a little long (easily solved just cut the slot the length needed) but has remained perfect through a few wash and wears.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj42ZKEukeWzJic9VeYxZUJuIJporbh7xqYFnacI3vWAv-fEGJGv6qABcBgIJzEWLGxJwwQTX0veyy7Fixjnhe65lbXCW1eFPZz56KlpHsYEE3uV9RwFHrqsTA5C2dmwQ5rJ_pZ11gFVoM/s1600/IMG_0071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj42ZKEukeWzJic9VeYxZUJuIJporbh7xqYFnacI3vWAv-fEGJGv6qABcBgIJzEWLGxJwwQTX0veyy7Fixjnhe65lbXCW1eFPZz56KlpHsYEE3uV9RwFHrqsTA5C2dmwQ5rJ_pZ11gFVoM/s1600/IMG_0071.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Style Arc Heidi Cardigan - Size 20 </td></tr>
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I like the casualness of this garment and surprise, surprise, my DD and photographer now wants one for herself!!</div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7RGFqcyXAhkgyEDcC0eFTtiifbhqmj5mo6ymlUrFOEiSWMvy6b-FaZPLgwwfizmohlBnubxGBuqaRzZl7gjl3laD2fBZTHzuf5PSG0Lm4Rp8y1Aq2TRB1BvdqRrIaVAath0AQ_WUTVN4/s1600/IMG_0068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7RGFqcyXAhkgyEDcC0eFTtiifbhqmj5mo6ymlUrFOEiSWMvy6b-FaZPLgwwfizmohlBnubxGBuqaRzZl7gjl3laD2fBZTHzuf5PSG0Lm4Rp8y1Aq2TRB1BvdqRrIaVAath0AQ_WUTVN4/s1600/IMG_0068.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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I like the loose casual style but will consider taking a little off the back as Anne also did for the next version. I highly recommend this pattern to you for a quick make with lots of versatility in the wardrobe.<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-7096919483941326262013-10-09T17:15:00.000-07:002013-10-09T17:15:01.080-07:00Finally!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHoAslARUA74o-t1v7JtvDWlvXaYSGLvnFnEXVmC0S7kNNXnHzI069zZ2rDRAUfxKDQtiZa_dilQGRX73xHQvlFvG_ih5vcX19OHYDnX7m4f14ZeSnjUWfxED6rsS2lKKRZmmtHI5noyg/s1600/IMG_0092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHoAslARUA74o-t1v7JtvDWlvXaYSGLvnFnEXVmC0S7kNNXnHzI069zZ2rDRAUfxKDQtiZa_dilQGRX73xHQvlFvG_ih5vcX19OHYDnX7m4f14ZeSnjUWfxED6rsS2lKKRZmmtHI5noyg/s1600/IMG_0092.jpg" height="400" width="201" /></a></div>
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Yahooo the velvet dress is finished! This has been 'slow' sewing at its best, as in the slow cooking movement as an enjoyable process to be savoured. And I am thrilled with the final result, it is exactly as I had envisaged. Go me!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhos2-IEqNfArEXqaZU20cjUFq8pSH0wgYVck__kCy47T_BgUd3S1X3ACX9DHx-DYz6IIMOE4QIKusELrbQhMas2Vl8p_zGU4nc0RkDjWyNgc5HuMvgncJka9DkK9SEbtHG_9HCpHStkSU/s1600/IMG_0073.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhos2-IEqNfArEXqaZU20cjUFq8pSH0wgYVck__kCy47T_BgUd3S1X3ACX9DHx-DYz6IIMOE4QIKusELrbQhMas2Vl8p_zGU4nc0RkDjWyNgc5HuMvgncJka9DkK9SEbtHG_9HCpHStkSU/s1600/IMG_0073.jpg" height="320" width="182" /></a></div>
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To recap the intial design was from Winter 2012 <a href="http://dementedkiwidiaries.blogspot.co.nz/2013/08/ottobre-tunic.html" target="_blank">Ottobre magazine</a> which was frankenpatterned using a <a href="http://dementedkiwidiaries.blogspot.co.nz/2013/08/ottobre-tunic-part-2-frankenpatterns.html" target="_blank">Burda Pattern</a>. I altered the sleeves to allow more bicep room and then carefully cut out my velvet having made both sides of the patterns for all pieces. I tried to make sure that the pattern was placed strategically to avoid spotlighting but it was a squeeze as I had failed to anticipate lenghtening the skirt (very short on the original).</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apologies for the photo!</td></tr>
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I had a great debate with myself, <a href="http://ejvc.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Elizabeth</a> and <a href="http://sdbevottobredesignadventure.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">sbev</a> from <a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,21347.0.html" target="_blank">Stitchers Guild</a> about interlining and interfacing this and after checking out a few designer versions decided to fully line the garment but did not interface or interline.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW8BBAQ-ETJQb6MXeWKfEEsF4cm7egI52k-A79yPXq3YE9mjzqe9cNVnkI_UEknnRui9dS4HTk10EB3As1xKhAnBByHmp3waUoIHrIqyyACsABNligoAq570-sPZTptmjbjzCuUUCYxiU/s1600/IMG_0087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW8BBAQ-ETJQb6MXeWKfEEsF4cm7egI52k-A79yPXq3YE9mjzqe9cNVnkI_UEknnRui9dS4HTk10EB3As1xKhAnBByHmp3waUoIHrIqyyACsABNligoAq570-sPZTptmjbjzCuUUCYxiU/s1600/IMG_0087.jpg" height="320" width="233" /></a></div>
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Constructing the dress had its tricky moments as anyone who has sewn this type of fabric would attest to. I marked all seams tucks and darts with a very soft short staple cotton thread (this means that it was easy to remove from the completed seams) which I'm not sure where it came from. It is absolutely no good for sewing anything but great for this. <br />
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The darts and tucks were simple and easy to sew without moving - what was all the fuss about this fabric!! But it was lulling me into a false sense of accomplishment as I moved onto the waist seam and slippage. Disaster and it was put aside for a few days. Unpicking and basting the seams worked a treat with controlled slippage this time LOL.<br />
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Not content to rest on my laurels of taming seams I decided to challenge myself and inserted an invisible zipper just to make removing the garment easier. Thanks to Foot 35 it was an easy job and look how invisible the seam is.</div>
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Sleeves and hems were done by hand, first I sewed some black satin bias to the velvet and then catchstitched all the hems - I need to take to dry cleaners to have it carefully steampressed and it will be ready to wear. I had wanted a dress that could be dressed up or still worn out during the day and I think I succeeded. What do you think? </div>
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When I asked the teenage son no. 2, he asked whether I really wanted to know his opinion (of course I did) and then said it looked like some grandmothers' curtains and rather old fashioned!!! </div>
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But that is what I like an almost 20's vibe!!</div>
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-21590482259207735902013-09-24T02:26:00.002-07:002013-09-24T02:26:50.710-07:00Old dogs and new tricks<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://babylock.com/images/products/alt/BLCS2_1_med.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="154" src="http://babylock.com/images/products/alt/BLCS2_1_med.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from http://babylock.com/sergers/cover-stitch/</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /><br /><br />In my sewing room I have a number of machines, these have been bought over a few years as time, money and skills have warranted. I added a Babylock Cover seamer to the list a few years ago and love it for the professional finish it provides on knits. I removed the third needle after making a jeans jacket and until last week never changed a thing except threads and new needles as required.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q71/s320x320/1239577_632159253481986_2091764692_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q71/s320x320/1239577_632159253481986_2091764692_n.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greta and her lace T-shirt.<br />Image from https://www.facebook.com/BerninaTauranga?ref=tn_tnmn</td></tr>
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Last week I had the opportunity to learn new ways of using the coverstitch machine to construct knit garments with a class at the Tauranga Bernina Centre with Robyn and the wonderful Greta. Greta is at present living in Cambodia (but visiting her parents in NZ). She is a font of knowledge about all the wonderful fabrics that you can purchase in Cambodia and it is very tempting to visit just to get some fabric!!! Under her guidence we learnt to use the chain stitch function and we embellished stretch lace (and so easy it was) then joined it to a knit underlayer and made a T-shirt.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up showing the fabric strips chainstitched to lace.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished t-shirt which was fully constructed on the Coverstitch Machine.<br /><br /></td></tr>
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This was so much fun as well as quick and easy. The differential feed on the machine means that the knit is easily sewn without pulling, stretching or puckering. I was hooked - a new trick indeed. The only thing was to make sure that the chain is not pulled before knotting or locking by sewing over seam otherwise all that hard work is undone literally!<br />
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At home I was off searching for some quick and easy project! The <a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=320&category_id=8&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=45" target="_blank">Creative Cate from Style Arc </a>seemed an obvious choice and combined with some odds and ends of knits worked a treat.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of the chainstitch</td></tr>
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Here it is in a very delicate silk knit from The Fabric Store which stitched up like a dream with the coverstitch. I had attempted to sew this last year and tossed it into a corner as it kept disappearing down the needleplate of the sewing machine. </div>
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I am impressed with the way I managed to get the pattern to join at the side seams!!</div>
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A final picture of me wearing the top - it is not such a good fabric to wear as it sticks to the body - but I loved the print and think the placement worked well.</div>
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On a roll I moved onto a few remnants from past projects - a silver and black polyester knit that has already proved itself as a wardrobe basic. But still thinking of passing it on as I am not sure that it is very flattering to my colouring - black is not such a good colour for me.<br />
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And finally out of a small left over which is a meaty slinky fabric with metallic geometric patterns. The photo does not do it justice, the pattern is made out of metallic paints that rest ontop of the knit and almost glow. I did not have much fabric so had to fold out of the middle to accomodate and recut the back neck line. The fabric is very stretchy but not enough for me. I badgered Alison to try it on and it was extremely flattering - although she was so taken with the pattern and had lots of ideas of where she could use it in her bags that I hope it remains as a top for a few outings!!!<br />
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Now that I have learnt to use the chainstitch function I am moving onto the two thread stitch on the overlocker. There are also a few more T-shirts planned using this method.<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-86593554963364348262013-09-15T04:32:00.004-07:002013-09-15T04:32:53.500-07:00Reaching for a Dream<br />
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I am so excited to finally realise my dream of teaching sewing!!!<br />
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In the past few days I have begun my journey as a sewing tutor. Thanks to the amazing Robyn from the <a href="http://www.berninatauranga.co.nz/catalog/" target="_blank">Tauranga Bernina Centre</a>, who offered me the opportunity, I have taught my first two classes on using Burda Style pattern magazines with my draped front coat as the model pattern. <br />
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As a sewer I have struggled with accurately measuring myself and that is the beginning part of the lesson. In my class, we work through a measurement chart measuring each other and then onto finding the right size in Burda. This coat or jacket pattern has only three pattern pieces and is a good introduction to the world of decyphering the maze that is a Burda pattern sheet.<br />
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Once this is done we then move onto fitting the pattern to the body. There was much laughter and lots of talk about our bodies (lets concentrate and accentuate the positive) while we did this. Shoulders seemed to be the area that needed adjustment for most. The great thing about this pattern is that it is fairly simple and can be made up in both a knit or woven fabric with some stretch. While we still had a few seams to finish at home the fiddly collar, dart and yoke seams were completed in class. I am hoping for a show and tell at Bernina Club.<br />
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A Big thanks to Peggy, Lynn, Delwyn, Kathy, Debbie, Angela, Heather and Alison for being such awesome, wonderful students and thank you for letting me post some photos of the days.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marking that dart</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delwyn cutting it one side at a time.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heather pining and marking</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alison's jacket</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angela in a beautiful viscose Chanel like fabric.<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kathy and her black lace coat (we should have<br />put her in white to show and tell)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Debbie with a merino like knit </td></tr>
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-76495892026739603852013-09-06T02:40:00.001-07:002013-09-06T02:40:10.120-07:00In love with 35<br />
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Foot number 35 is the Bernna Invisible Zip Foot and I am totally in love with it! Last night I had three large cushions to make for the New Entrants Room. They need to be able to washed so needed to have a zip or buttons to close. I have a ifffy history with zips especially invisible ones so was reluctant to begun until I remembered buying this little beauty with my new Bernina.<br />
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I attached and programmed the machine and started. It was a little difficult to get the teeth of the zip into the groove correctly but easy once you know how, the machine walks slowly opening the zip teeth stitching close. The end result is a perfectly invisible zip in the seam. <br />
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Next time I will take the time to tack the zipper tape exactly where I want it as it had a tendency to move inwards. I am now looking forward to a dress project with an invisible zip - I can't believe I said that!!<br />
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The final result...<br />
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The cushions were wonderfully received by the children and will make the library corner a popular space. And I am happy as I used up some stash helping in the sewing room tidy up.<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-17820663409167711742013-08-28T01:45:00.002-07:002013-08-28T01:45:38.651-07:00What do you when inspiration fails??I am curious about what you do when an attack of the blahs hits and sewing is the last thing to contemplate? <br />
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During the past week, although the silk velvet dress is cut and ready to go, it was the last thing I wanted to begin. I have cleaned the car, eradicated the mending pile, rearranged the sewing room and sorted all the fabric as well as working most days. All because of a fear of beginning to sew this fabric????<br />
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Each night I have sat and read over my favourite blogs thrilling to each's wonderful projects hoping to kickstart my enthusiasm.<br />
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My all time favourite is <a href="http://sewingfantaticdiary.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Carolyn's blog</a> Diary of a Sewing Fanatic. Always guaranteed to interest, Carolyn's descriptions of her sewing journey are as entertaining as they are informative and I envy her access to the New York garment district and all its treasures. It would be a treat to travel the long distance from New Zealand just to meet and spend time with her and of course her fabric collection.<br />
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/://fitforaqueen.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Mrs Moles tales</a> (fit for a queen) from the sewing machine of a bridal seamstress and alterations expert often have me rolling around the floor. Her sense of humor is only exceeded by her knowledge and expertise in correcting other's messes. Having long ago decided that sewing for others for profit is not for me I can only admire her dogged persistence in fixing what really is virtually unfixable and saving the day for many a bride. Long may she sew!!!<br />
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A recent import is Sarah's blog at <a href="http://goodbyevalentino.com/" target="_blank">Goodbye Valentino</a>. A resolution to quit buying RTW for a year has turned out to be an internet sensation and Sarah has gone onto blogfamdom and a spot in the Mood Sewing Network. Her garments are eyecandy of the best sort and an inspiration for anyone who would like to create a wearable wardrobe.<br />
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A new blog both in the blogsphere and to me is Master Tailor Jim and his <a href="http://finetailoringbyjim.blogspot.co.nz/2013/08/im-giving-away-my-alteration-dvd-to-10.html" target="_blank">The Lost Art of Fine Tailoring</a><a href="http://finetailoringbyjim.blogspot.co.nz/2013/08/im-giving-away-my-alteration-dvd-to-10.html" target="_blank"> </a>. A tailor of renown he resides in Savannah and is passing on his skills, teaching at his Savannah Sewing School. Jim is amazing and can sew a pair of trousers in 90 minutes. I would love to be able to take a class with him in tailoring as the garments he shows look so sharp.<br />
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Of course this is but a beginning of all the blogs that I read and with plans to review more, watch this space.<br />
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What do you do to restart that sewing drive?jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-4537306256182591342013-08-15T04:12:00.002-07:002013-08-15T04:12:33.740-07:00Ottobre Tunic Part 2 - Frankenpatterns<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue line - Burda: Red line - Ottobre</td></tr>
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Back to the frankenpattern, here is what the pattern looks like with the Ottobre placed over the Burda. As I had already discovered that the sleeve and armhole did not fit I kept the Burda as it was.<br />
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Next up was to make it up in calico as a trial - I only made the bodice and added the sleeves. The fit was almost perfect except that I needed more room in the sleeves particularly at the bicep. <br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;">I use the method recommended by Palmer and Alto in Fit for Real People to draw a line across the sleeve head and a line down from the shoulder head. Cut along the lines from the middle out to the seams leaving a little uncut then cut in from the edge as a hinge.</span></span><br />
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Carefully slide the cut edges apart letting the horizontal lines slide together as shown below.<br />
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Pin the pattern pieces in place and then either fill in the space with more tissue or as shown here draw out the new sleeve pattern.<br />
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I guesstimate the amount needed by taking my bicep measurement and comparing it to the original pattern which showed that my measurement was the same as the pattern. This meant that there was no ease in the sleeve so I added about 2cm.<br />
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For the next muslin I used some poly crepe and my wonderful <a href="http://sacurveruler.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">SA Curve Rulers</a> which I ordered awhile ago from the Etsy store. I love a gadget and these rulers make adding the seam allowance so easy.<br />
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This picture shows the true colour of the crepe - not a good one for me but I have plenty of this for muslins.<br />
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The final result was a nice fit in the chest and across the shoulders - I am not sure what those lines mean on my back but over all I thought the fit did not look too bad. What do you think? <br />
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I am taking what Sarah Veblen in The Complete Photo Guide to Fitting says about over fitting to heart and making this up in the intended fabric.<br />
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I am so happy to have a successful (so far) project.<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-11614578028614314022013-08-10T02:52:00.003-07:002013-08-10T02:55:27.156-07:00Ottobre Tunic<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ottobredesign.com/lehdet_js/2012_5/sivut/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="http://www.ottobredesign.com/lehdet_js/2012_5/sivut/3.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ottobre 5/2012</td></tr>
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With nine days to devote to sewing I have been busy fitting the tunic. My initial muslin of this tunic was a great disappointment - I started with a size 50 and found the armhole too big and the shoulders much too wide. I cut down to a 48 arms and sleeves but still ill fitting. Added bicep width and did a petite adjustment above the bust but to no availl. The bodice just did not work on me. This was a disappointment as I was very taken with the Ottobre designs and planned to make all the items in this issue.<br />
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Back to the drawing board and started anew with Burda. I have so many issues that I was sure that I could find something similar. I spent a few pleasureable days searching thorough back issues but nothing remotely the same came up. Back to the drawing board... and Burda 3/2009<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNTv00Z6NOLCkN-thmwyZLD9uhqeWpJgXsORtYYtJyORd_Yf2RnllV2t5JPEtBvzhgrtxiaRH7j2oSGIksPh2385QWkn6vyujNPu7ufHa89Cw8miQU0NC5WlgF0IuFGJZpnWqVLm9vIY0/s1600/DSC03357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNTv00Z6NOLCkN-thmwyZLD9uhqeWpJgXsORtYYtJyORd_Yf2RnllV2t5JPEtBvzhgrtxiaRH7j2oSGIksPh2385QWkn6vyujNPu7ufHa89Cw8miQU0NC5WlgF0IuFGJZpnWqVLm9vIY0/s200/DSC03357.JPG" width="140" /></a><br />
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The Plus section has a great selection of special occasion patterns one of which is a lace overtop with a bust dart. Overlaying the Ottobre pattern over the Burda pattern I moved the darts and recut using the Ottobre darts front and back and Burda armhole and sleeves.<br />
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This worked better than I thought it would and completely out of my comfort zone. I have always avoided too much mucking around with patterns - it is the sewing that I enjoy in fact cutting out a pattern has always been a detested activity of sewing. But in the last year I have been branching out of my comfort zone looking for a better fit as well as improving my sewing skills. Go me!<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-28908175180772506572013-08-05T15:37:00.001-07:002013-08-05T15:37:21.494-07:00Pattern Madness - DressesAlthough there are lots of works in progress I could not help taking the opportunity of some new patterns for spring while taking husband to the airport. He is off to Brisbane for a course and I get 9 days to sew!! A great exchange.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/B5917.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://butterick.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/B5917.jpg" height="320" width="303" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butterick 5917</td></tr>
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I was hoping to get this pattern which Sarah from <a href="http://goodbyevalentino.com/" target="_blank">Goodbye Valentino</a> made up so well. I loved the ruffle detail and the higher waist and thought it would suit the new Spring Plan very well. Unfortunately we are a season behind and it is in the new Fall patterns in the US, if I want it I need to order it online. But never fear I still managed to come away with a few new patterns - I was very restrained. <br />
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Reading other blogs is dangerous to pattern owning health! Seeing what others make and how they interpret the patterns can highlight a pattern that I just need to own. Butterick 5891 by Katherine Tilton is an example - discussion on <a href="http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,20308.msg332758.html#msg332758" target="_blank">Stitchers Guild</a> along with the pictures of <a href="http://nowsewing.blogspot.co.nz/2013/04/b5891-almost-perfect.html" target="_blank">Martha's version </a> convinced me that I need this for the Plan.<br />
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<a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/B5891.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://butterick.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/B5891.jpg" height="320" width="303" /></a></div>
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Keeping with the theme I picked up Marcy Tilton's new dress from Vogue 8876 and think the version with the cap sleeves will look good in very fluid viscose fabric.<br />
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<a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/First_Full/V8876.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/First_Full/V8876.jpg" height="320" width="303" /></a></div>
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After the success I had with dresses last summer I am keen to sew more and fell in love with this Tracey Reese version.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/V1343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/V1343.jpg" height="320" width="303" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vogue 1343</td></tr>
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Lots of things to think about sewing and I still am working on that velvet dress and hope to have it ready for unveiling by the weekend. My plan of sewing a little each day has been thwarted recently with lots of work and child rearing demands but now with the husband away and the children at school I might get some more done!<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5241125486346512042.post-33555626249899346962013-07-15T20:28:00.001-07:002013-07-15T20:28:54.410-07:00Reducing and crossing off.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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It is great to cross off an item on my list - its from the bottom of the list - Merino shirts for my boys. The plus was that all the fabric used for this project is from the stash.<br />
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<a href="http://kwiksew.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/K3981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://kwiksew.mccall.com/filebin/images/product_images/Full/K3981.jpg" width="303" /></a></div>
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I used Kwik Sew 3981 in a small and medium size. DS 17 wants me to take the sides in and make the next one longer as he does not like the loose look. DS 19 likes that loose look and will wear it over other t-shirts.<br />
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Sewing this was a breeze and I only used the ovelocker and the coverstitch machines. I have started to baste alot more and hand basted the hood and the sleeve bands on before overlocking then coverstitching the seams down. I find that doing this makes the sewing of these seams quick and easy, and then just pull out the basting thread when finished.<br />
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I have a Babylock coverstitch which gave a little grief getting the tension right but the final result was worth the sweat. I flatlocked the raglan sleeve seams and hems and the guys liked the final look. <br />
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Next up is some two toned T-shirts with the rest of the merino.<br />
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<br />jacquiannehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01877759444999296777noreply@blogger.com4