|Blue line - Burda: Red line - Ottobre|
Back to the frankenpattern, here is what the pattern looks like with the Ottobre placed over the Burda. As I had already discovered that the sleeve and armhole did not fit I kept the Burda as it was.
Next up was to make it up in calico as a trial - I only made the bodice and added the sleeves. The fit was almost perfect except that I needed more room in the sleeves particularly at the bicep.
I use the method recommended by Palmer and Alto in Fit for Real People to draw a line across the sleeve head and a line down from the shoulder head. Cut along the lines from the middle out to the seams leaving a little uncut then cut in from the edge as a hinge.
Carefully slide the cut edges apart letting the horizontal lines slide together as shown below.
Pin the pattern pieces in place and then either fill in the space with more tissue or as shown here draw out the new sleeve pattern.
I guesstimate the amount needed by taking my bicep measurement and comparing it to the original pattern which showed that my measurement was the same as the pattern. This meant that there was no ease in the sleeve so I added about 2cm.
For the next muslin I used some poly crepe and my wonderful SA Curve Rulers which I ordered awhile ago from the Etsy store. I love a gadget and these rulers make adding the seam allowance so easy.
This picture shows the true colour of the crepe - not a good one for me but I have plenty of this for muslins.
The final result was a nice fit in the chest and across the shoulders - I am not sure what those lines mean on my back but over all I thought the fit did not look too bad. What do you think?
I am taking what Sarah Veblen in The Complete Photo Guide to Fitting says about over fitting to heart and making this up in the intended fabric.
I am so happy to have a successful (so far) project.