Burda 128 - 1/2013

My first project for the Burda Sew Along is a waterfall coat from the January 2013 issue.

This issue has renewed my confidence in Burda.  As a long time customer and fan of the wonderful fit and style of Burda I struggled with the less is more and deconstructed fashions of late.  That fashion is not a flattering one for my body type and size.  This issue has lots of great styles and this coat is the first of many that I will make up.

128 Burda Plus Felted Wool Coat

This is the coat matched with this fabric - bought from the amazing Global Fabric's in Auckland.  It was pricey (35.00m or around about that) but worth it I think.  I also bought some silk paisley, silk velvet and merino to make a capsule which co-ordinate with the wool.

The best thing about this pattern is how wonderfully it is drafted - the dart makes all the difference removing some of the excess fabric that this type of garment can have.

Back Yoke

Lapel line dart

Pattern Sizing.

As I selected a knit fabric to make this, I decided to make size 48, which is a little smaller than my bust measurement but wanted a close fit.  Flat pattern measuring showed that there was enough ease for the look I wanted.

Did it look like the pattern photo /drawing envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Sort of  - because I made a smaller size it has a more fitting profile than in the picture, but that was the look I was going for.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

I read the instructions before cutting out but did my own thing! Which is why I now need to think of how to get the darts to sit the right way as the pattern is lined, and it would have been better to do a CB flat fell seam for the collar. 

What do you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the way the pattern is cut with a dart at the lapel line, which means the collar falls beautifully.  The other plus of this pattern is the back yoke is cut on the front and helps form the collar.  The result of this is a more fitting garment – I like this style with the draped front but am not a fan of the loose look that can result with this style and this pattern is more fitted.

Fabric used?

A wool lace knit from Global Fabrics in Auckland, which is super soft and very warm to wear.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made?

No changes made – the pattern was made up as is.

Would you sew it again or recommend it to others?

Yes I plan to make this again – perhaps with a woven fabric this time.  I highly recommend this for a sleek chic garment.

Conclusion.

This is a very well designed pattern, which with the dart makes a very flattering coat.  I highly recommend this pattern and love the fact that it is in a range of plus sizes.

As I used a rather different fabric than that recommended I know have a dilemma about finishing the edge.  The fabric is very light weight and 'wafts' around which I do not want to destroy - I have been experimenting with overlocking the edge or edging with bias chiffon strip. I like the look of the chiffon strip but as the fabric right and wrong side shows I need to work through how to do this to the best advantage - suggestions are welcome.

Overlocked edge.

Edge folded over and stitched

Bias chiffon Strip