I love the jacket in this pattern but have yet to try it out. I copied out a size 22. Next I also copied out a top from a Burda Plus Magazine from Summer 2007 - although not exactly like the Sorbetto I thought I could alter it if it fit.
I discovered that the Sorbetto top was around the same size as these two so I made all three up in some ghastly polyester (I cannot wear polyester - I turn into a static light bulb!!)
Here are the results :-
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New Look - too big under the arms but
the darts are nice (hard to see here)
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| Burda fits much nicer in the underarms and has a closer fit compared to the New Look, but needs a swayback alteration as shown in the next photo. 
Finally the Sorbetto Top
Front
 I had some concerns about the fit of the Sorbetto - the armholes were a little loose and the shoulders had a tendency to fall off - I changed the slope of the shoulder seam and adjusted the armhole a little.
I dived into the stash and found a beautiful silk crepe remnant from Donna Karan via the heavenly Global Fabrics which had been aging for an number of years and made it into this...
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It looks ok - but I do not think the shape of the armhole is correct for my shape - it has a tendency to "flip out" so I had to fold the binding inside and stitch down - it still is not perfect but doesn't look too bad. I am going to remake this pattern using a Burda top from Burda Style 2/2011 140. Compared to the Sorbetto, Burda's armhole shaping is much more sloped rather than straight up and down. So onto the next challenge!! The good thing about this exercise is that I am now down 4 bits of fabric from the stash!!!
Only another sewist is going to notice your fitting issues. I dislike Burda patterns because they always seem to have plunging necklines. Oh and mine are in the magazines from which tracing has become impossible. I find I need a narrow shoulder adjusment on everything except a tank top with 1" or less shoulders. The NSA neatly takes care of shoulders too wide or sliding off my frame; the excess I seem to have across the upper chest and tames most armscye issues. If you're interested, check Ann's section at SG. If not, just be happy with your very lovely blouse. That's such an excellent use of that beautiful fabric.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your advice Bev - I have enjoyed your fitting journeys as shown on your blog. I have not had to copy anything from the newer Burda's as I have such a stash of the old ones. I am very hollow in the chest apart from the boobs! and this creates a few fitting issues.
DeleteI keep looking at this top, but its too cold here to even think about it at the moment, but I do like your final version its very pretty.
ReplyDeleteI just love the Sorbetto top at the moment, once you tweak it to your requirements it is a quick and easy sew-together. I have a few made up just for work.
ReplyDeleteOver on my blog I have just nominated you for the Versatile Bloggers Award - congratulations!!! It is only being passed onto Aussie Sewers, but since you are a fellow teacher I will include an New Zealander just this once (ha, ha). I really enjoy your blog and following along with your sewing....