Sew Arc - Fangirl

At last I can post what I have been sewing recently.  DH has returned from the desert and is off collecting cars from Wellington with a mate.  As he is away working for long periods when he returns we (children and I) devote a few days catching him up with all the happenings in our world.

I have been working on a few Style Arc patterns - notably the Ann T-shirt.  I love the fit of this T and have eliminated the rouching. This has become my favourite T-shirt and I have a few more cut and ready to sew.  


I made this in a Size 20 with few alterations except for lengthening the back to match the front.  The fabric came from a lovely shop in Mt Albert from a shopping expedition with the lovely Chris (SIL).  It is a cotton lycra and feels smooth and is very cool to wear. 

I then moved onto this Simplicity pattern which I have had on the wish list for a while following my cowl-neck sewathon.  Cruising through the stash I found a brown check/plaid, which I am unsure of both content and origin, that would look perfect for View A. 

I made a Size 20 with some additional width at the bust downwards.  It was a simple and quick sew up but I had difficulty with matching stripes at side seams, I am hoping that it really is not noticeable. 

View C is now in my sights with a beautiful cotton from the wonderful Global Fabrics.  Both tops are part of my travel 6 PAC for our Christmas Trip to Australia.

Finally I made something for DH's babies, to keep them dust free and protected. The photographer and himself spent an afternoon measuring all the babies and I was presented with this...

and made a pattern which became this...

He needs a few more for the rest of the babies so I will be busy making covers for a little while longer. 

Winning - A Double Edge Sword!

Metallic non stretch - 20 metre roll

Quilted metallic - 10 metres

Green quilted metallic also in pink

Powder Blue brocade

Silk Chiffon - 2-3metre rolls

Black Silk Charmese/brocade

Coffee lace - 5 metres

Array of laces and silks

Various polyester chiffons and viscose

Interfacing in various weights - fusible and sew in.

Polyester blouse weights.

Polyester Suiting - linen like and knit - Think '70's crimpelene suits!

Polyester crepes - some rolls up to 30 metres.

Silk Shantung - 14 metres

Cotton Twill

Designer Tapa like cotton.

Bright Cotton twill

More lace

Black linen

Brushed cotton 

Silk 

Jackie O - powder blue silk boucle

Polyester satin embroidered with sequins and feathers - three different patterns and colourways, blue, black, cerise.

Recently I won an auction of a fabric from Trademe, which is the source of my double edged sword.  I was captured by the thought of the array of silks, linens and other cottons that were listed, even though I am trying to reduce the stash.

Flash forward to collection of the bounty and it was a careful packing of the stationwagon with bolts and bolts of fabric.  No time to examine closely as we shoved, pushed and jammed more and more into the car.  Two hours later I was home and unpacking, with the lounge knee deep in rolls and rolls of fabric.  It is now carefully packed away in the shed waiting for DD and SIL to look over and choose what they want.  I have already made up some of the silk chiffon for a wrap to wear at a wedding in the weekend.  I have selected some fabric but it was more polyester than I expected (which I can not wear) and will be reposted back onto Trademe in the coming months.

As well in the new year I will take a page from Ruth's wonderful blog and have some competitions to win some of this wonderful bounty!

Bernina Club

The amazing Robyn (left) and Lois. 

This year I made a resolution to devote some time to doing more of the things that make my life sing, and one of them is sewing.  So I joined the local Bernina Club and once a month I join a group of talented people to talk about sewing.  The wonderful Robyn from Tauranga Bernina Shop demonstrates new techniques, cute projects and amazing tools all the while motivating us all with her enthusiasm for the art of sewing. 

At times sewing seems a lonely pastime,  thank goodness for the internet where I can connect with a world-wide community of like minded souls but there is nothing like face to face contact.  The Tirau group are a bunch of talented ladies who make me look forward to the second Tuesday in the month!!! Last Tuesday we celebrated the end of the year with a show and tell and a yummy morning tea.

I wore my Donna Karan 1250 dress that I made in October and made this basket and the chocolate goodies.

Easy Chocolate Brownie and Delectable White Chocolate Laminton Morsels.

 Take a look at what Cyndi made out of an old suit, a backpack using a Bernina pattern.

Buttons from the sleeve.

Buttonholes and pockets are so easy to reuse.

No need to line!!

Lois is an extremely talented artist who is an inspiration and a great source for sewing problems.  She recently had two of her works photographed and put onto canvas.

Mary used the inspiration from a front cover NZ Quilter and made this quilt front.

Dorothy made this beautiful detailed house quilt.

Carolyn and her Christmas picture.

Inspired by all this and fueled by chocolate I went home and made another T shirt for DD1.  This comes from the Inspiration magazine that Bernina produce.

The fit of these patterns are like Burda but I had to grade it up a size and then added more to the lower side seams.  I love the look of the T-shirt with the scarf piece and the irregular neck line.  I am very happy with the slit I made using the welt technique.

The printed fabric was a bargain buy at the Fabric Barn in Hamilton on half price.  It has the writing printed both right way and upside down but next T-shirt I make I will turn it the other way.

Fitting the body?

Trousers are a staple in my wardrobe when I can get a pair that fits.  I have tried a few times to sew trousers myself but the results were worse than what I can buy.  In the nineties I made a few pairs of Today's Fit that were ok but I want more than Ok for fit.  Fast forward to today and I have been reading and seeing the success people have had with Style Arc and Burda patterns, this has persuaded me to try again.

I love the look of these pants from Style Arc - Peta's Pants.  So I started with these.  Usually I copy my patterns but decided to cut these and use without copying.  

These looked okay from the front but pulled in the inner upper leg seam if I tried to move. But all the action was in the back.  The fabric dipped down to nothing in the middle of my waist and there were lots of diagonal wrinkles.  

I decided to see what the Burda 7966 pants were like in comparison.

These pants were more comfortable in the leg but had the same problem in the back as the Style Arc pants.  I consulted this book which I find very good for helping to diagnose problems.

 And it seemed as if the problem was a protruding derriere or big butt!  So following the directions I cut into the pattern like so...

and this was the result...

This alteration helped raise the waist at the centre back but did not remove that diagonal wrinkle.  At the front it looks like too much fabric has been added but when I walk it pulls from the back.  Consulting the book again suggests that I need to add a little in the front crotch curve to allow for full inside thighs.  I made another pair and also added a little more at the centre back waist as I was unsure if I had raised it enough.

Surprisingly this has made the whole pant seem more roomy around the waist, the wrinkle at the back is still there and I think I need to reduce the back crotch extension alteration I did at the beginning as adding to both the front and back has added too much fabric I think. I am going to appeal for help in solving this and try these alteration on the Style Arc pants and see if they respond a little better as regards fit.