Creative Cate from Style Arc

I have made the winning cowl neck pattern - the Creative Cate - in a wonderful graphic print for the university student DD1.  Written all over the print is 'ONLY ONE ME'  and when I saw this polyester fabric at the Fabric Warehouse in Hamilton I immediately thought of her.  It was expensive $26.95/m but just wouldn't be left in the shop. At the time of purchase I wasn't sure what pattern to make it up.  But as I went along on the cowl neck sew-a-thon it soon became obvious that the Creative Cate would be a good match.

I wish I could say the fabric was as simple and easy to sew as the pattern.  My overlocker, a Baby-lock, hated the fabric and no matter what I did; woolly nylon, starching, tension adjustment, could not get it to behave.  In frustration I used the sewing machine and it was easier.  I am open to suggestions on how to sew this type of fabric - a beefy very smooth polyester.  

This has been posted off to DD1 and I hope that she loves it as much as I do.

Cowl neck success - Part 2.

Style Arc Creative Cate

Pattern Description. This is such a great versatile top that can be worn in lots of different ways - just leave it up to your creative imagination. Simple to make and simple to wear!

Pattern Sizing. I made up a size 20 – but forgot to add the seam allowance (Duh!)  It is a little close fitting but I still like the look. 

Did it look like the pattern photo /drawing envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow? This must be one of the easiest and quickest patterns to sew.  I made it up in an hour tops from cutting out to completion. 

What do you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the way it fits the body – the last cowl neck I made was very loose and baggy. 

Fabric used? A light polyester knit as a muslin. 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? I forgot to add the seam allowance so it fits a little closer than I meant it to.  I need to lower the arm opening a little as it pulls.

Would you sew it again or recommend it to others? I recommend this pattern if you are looking for a more fitting cowl neck – great for a stylish work look.  I plan to sew more of this pattern.

Conclusion. A wonderful pattern that has the look I was searching for, and it is simple to make.

Simplicity 1945

Pattern Description. Raglan sleeved top with a cowl like collar.

Pattern Sizing. View C size 20.

Did it look like the pattern photo /drawing envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it looks exactly like the top Khaliah Ali is wearing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What do you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This pattern has been on my to-do list for awhile.  I have included in this sewathon as the collar affect is very like that of a cowl.  I love the two piece raglan sleeve it is very attractive the way it is darted to cup the outer arm.  The collar is rather weighty and I think care needs to be taken in fabric selection as it could look rather awful if the fabric does not drape softly. 

Fabric Used.  Lightweight polyester knit.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? I made this straight out of the pattern – with Simplicity I normally make one size smaller than my measurements as I prefer less ease. 

Would you sew it again or recommend it to others? I love this top and plan to make it up in a better fabric.  The two-piece sleeve gives a great fit and the top looks very flattering in my opinion.  I thoroughly recommend this pattern.

Conclusion

Threads featured this pattern in its pattern feature for autumn – I plan to make it up for summer with some adjustments with the collar.  I really like the style of this top and can see a few versions made for summer.

And the winner is ... 

The Creative Cate.  

This top is quick and easy to sew - the cowl neck is just the right size for an everyday look - dressed up by what type of fabric used.

Confusion and cowl necks, Vogue and Burda, Part 1.

I have finally photographed my recent cowl neck sewathon.  It all started when I trialled a Burda Cowl Neck for inclusion into my 6PAC.  I was not satisfied with the final look, it was too loose and baggy,  I was looking for a more fitted style.  So off I went to the stash where I found; Vogue 9771 which I had made up many years ago, Simplicity 1945 featured in Threads autumn showcase, Burda 7519.  After reading about the Creative Cate from Style Arc patterns  on Stitchers Guild Style Arc Discussion I decided to purchase.

I used a lightweight polyester knit that was in the stash as a muslin. These finished garments will be off to the Red Cross shop to find new homes.

First up is Vogue 7519.

Pattern Description. Semi- fitted, pullover top has bias front and back.

Pattern Sizing. View C size 22.

Did it look like the pattern photo /drawing envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What do you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This pattern has been in the Vogue pattern catalogue since the nineties.  Although it is designed for woven fabrics cut on the bias I decided to try making this in a knit. I don’t want to trash this pattern with faint praise, it is a workhorse garment, great for a basic.

Fabric Used.  Lightweight polyester knit.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? I substituted a knit for a woven fabric. When sewing the front to back I changed the way the cowl is sewn following the method suggested by Burda.  I made this up as per the pattern but did not use the facings.  I used strips to bind the armholes.

Would you sew it again or recommend it to others? This is a classic pattern that has stood the test of time.  If you have made this the first time around are you able to make it again the next time???

Conclusion

Another classic pattern but can be fiddly to sew the cowl matching the dots. Goodbye to Valentine made this top up and called it a practical garment.

http://goodbyevalentino.com/2012/07/30/a-sensible-top-vogue-9771/

Burda 7519

Pattern Description. T-shirt, semi-fitted.

Pattern Sizing. Graded up to Size 22.  This pattern only has up to size 20 so I had to grade it up to size 22 following Burda’s instructions.

Did it look like the pattern photo /drawing envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes the cowl neck falls in beautiful folds but is very low and can be revealing. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the diagrams were particularly helpful.

What do you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I really like the darts which give a sleek fitted look, which is the look I am searching for.  The folds of the cowl are lovely and flattering but the neck is very low and revealing – I will tack the neck slightly closed and to maintain the folds in the cowl neck (thanks Mum for that suggestion).

Fabric Used.  Lightweight polyester knit.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made? As this pattern did not come in my size I had to grade it up one size.  The grading was easy to do and very successful.  I did not move the darts as measurements showed they were in the right place however when made up in the fabric the front darts are not centred enough.  The back darts are in the perfect place.  Next time I will move the front darts 1cm in towards the centre front.

Would you sew it again or recommend it to others? I would recommend this pattern as another more fitted cowl neck pattern with the proviso about the low neckline at the centre front.  I might try the other version with the waterfall sleeves, they look interesting.

Conclusion

A nice top with a deeper cowl than the other patterns – the addition of darts adds onto the sewing time but does give a sleek look.

Simplicity 1806

I have just finished View E for my DD who is at University studying architecture.  She is struggling with finances as the projects for her assignments can get very costly.  She was very happy to have me make some clothes for her but we have very different tastes so it will be a bit touch and go.  I measured her up in the last holidays and adjusted Gertie accordingly.  As an aside I was taken with Kenneth Kings's Thread article about making a fitted cover for Gertie that would be a much better model and now plan to make one for both myself and DD.


The finished top is now posted and I wait for the verdict regarding fit and whether the fabric etc is to her taste.  Her sister loved the fabric - a fine Japanese cotton batiste print and wants a top for herself in the same fabric.

Japanese batiste print from Spotlight - Hamilton.

Front View

Pattern Sizing.

I made up a size 16 with the front altered to size 20 to accommodate daughter’s DD bust.

Did it look like the pattern photo /drawing envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Sort of – although I used a recommended fabric the collar does not fall softly like that shown in the picture.  But overall pleased with the look.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, followed most of them but changed the facings.

What do you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the pleat at the back it looks great on the dress model and hopefully on DD.  I am not loving the collar – it does not sit nicely at the back V and stands out a little at the front. 

Fabric used?

Soft Japanese cotton print – batiste I think from Spotlight. I washed before cutting as quality from this place can be variable and it was a dream to sew.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made?

I enlarged the front to accommodate DD’s large bust but as this was made with out fitting as DD is away at University I now have to wait and see if it was successful – it fits her measurements on the model.  I also changed the facing to a bias bound edge and stitched it down – it looks more like what is around in the shops and I occasionally have trouble with facings behaving properly and refusing to sit nicely.

Would you sew it again or recommend it to others?

Yes DD no 2 wants one in the same material but without the collar and I want to make View B up for myself.  I am not sure if View E would suit me and really do not like mother/daughter outfits!

Conclusion.

A nice top pattern that was easy to sew – it took a little longer than I thought it would due to some basting required (do not try to sew the flange’s in without basting – ask me how I know :-0).  I am looking forward to trying the other view.

Back View I love the pleat!

 One thing about this pattern view is that the collar does not fall as pictured in the pattern photo - I think it needs a rayon or knit to get the same effect.  I was thinking of trying to widen the middle of the collar to get it to fall better, although DD 2 suggests canning the collar and just binding the neck edge instead.  I will definitely make this again.

UFO's

I have been busy cleaning up the sewing room and stumbled over some UFO's while  I am procrastinating about my 6PAC.  I am stalled over the first jacket, it is not working and really needs to be binned but I struggle with this.  I have difficulty letting projects go and dislike starting anything until I have finished my last project.  The upside of this is that I do not have many UFO's but find that the few that I do have kill my sewing mojo.  So while letting that jacket have time out I finished the black scarf.  The blue scarf is so useful and warm but does not go with some things in the wardrobe so I started the black. It is now my new favourite!!

Moving right along I found these two tops cut out but not completed.  It is amazing how quickly these went together after siting around for 2 years!!  They are both merino - the coral has some lycra and a slight stripe.  They are wonderful to wear and it is still cold enough for these for a few more weeks.  The pattern is a Burda style 7504 and I like it so much that I am going to make some summer tops.

This top was fairly straight forward to sew but I had problems with the band - the picture shows that the cf seam joins with the centre panel seams but I can not get them to line up.  I also did not interface as it made the bank too stiff - the merino had enough body on its own. The sleeves are close fitting and when I first made the coral one I decided to add more to bicep area so if you have big biceps you will need to add more.